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RICHMOND, 

AND 


ITS 


SURROUNDING SC 


ENER Y. 


ENGRAVED BY AND UNDER THE DIRECTION OF 


W. B. COOKE. 


3s 






WITH 


yS?' 






DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS, BY MRS. HOFLAND. 


DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, 

TO HER GRACE THE DUCHESS OF NORTHUMBERLAND. 


CONTAINING TWENTY-FOUR PLATES. 


LONDON: 

W. B. COOKE, 27, CHARLOTTE STREET, BLOOMSBURY. 


1832. 






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TO HER GRACE 


THE DUCHESS OF NORTHUMBERLAND, 

ETC. ETC. ETC. ETC. 


MADAM, 

In dedicating this Work to your Grace, I am sensible that my first 
duty is gratitude. The permission to use your Grace's name (a 
name not less distinguished for high rank than intellectual attain¬ 
ments) was accorded to me with that condescension and promptitude 
which enhances the value of every boon. 

Your Grace will be aware that my share of the Work must be 
deemed secondary, and my reminiscences of the noblest subjects and 
most interesting scenes necessarily concise. This will appear more 
particularly the case where Syon House is mentioned, being in 
itself a place immediately connected with the history of our Country. 

I am, Madam, 

Your Graced 

Very Obedient 

And Obliged Servant, 

BARBARA HOFLAND. 


October 17th, 1832. 

















* 










s' 











































■ 


































































































NAMES OF THE SUBSCRIBERS. 


Ails a, Marquess of, St. Margaret’s. 
Abbott, James, Esq. Adel phi Terrace. 
Abraham, T. Esq. York Terrace, Re¬ 
gent’s Park. 

Ackermann, Mr. R. Strand. 

Aickin, Miss, Richmond. 

Allan, Rev. W. Vineyard, Richmond. 
Arch, Messrs. I. and A. Cornhill. 
Aynsley, Mrs. Murray. 

Bedford, His Grace the Duke of. 

Bute, Most Honourable the Marchioness 
of. Petersham. 

Beresford, Lady Anna, Richmond. 
Bernard, Hon. II. Connaught Place. 
Byng, Hon. Miss, Twickenham. 

Baker, Sir Henry Loraine, Dunstable 
House. 

Baker, Miss, Richmond Green. 
Banister, Thomas Melville, Esq. Bruns¬ 
wick Square. 

Banner, Robert, Esq. Richmond. 
Baratty, Miss S. Petersham. 

Barnard, Mrs. Richmond. 

Bennett, Miss, Sloane Street. 

Bernal, Ralph, Esq. M. P. Park Crescent, 
Portland Place. 

Best, Miss, Mortlake. 

Bewsher, Rev. James, Richmond. 
Bishopp, Miss M. Richmond Green. 
Blundstone, John, Esq. Clermont. 
Brent, Timothy, Esq. Marble Hill Cot¬ 
tage, Twickenham. 


Blyth, B. Esq. Park Terrace, Kew Lane. 
Brown, Mrs. Turner, Richmond. 
Burdett, Mrs. Twickenham. 

Budd, Miss, Richmond Green. 

Burn, Mrs. W. Richmond Hill. 

Carlisle, Right Honourable Countess of. 
Campbell, Hon. Mrs. Richmond. 
Conroy, Sir John, Kensington Palace. 
Chester, Very Reverend the Dean of, 
Kensington. 

Cambridge, the Venerable the Archdea¬ 
con, Twickenham. 

Carter, John, Esq. Twickenham. 
Chapman, Thomas, Esq. Hill Street, 
Richmond. 

Chapman, William, Esq. Ormond Row, 
Richmond. 

Chapman and Hall, Messrs. Strand. 
Charles, Mrs. Park Shot, Kew Lane. 
Coates, Mr. W. Richmond. 

Collins, Edward, Esq. Richmond. 
Cooke, George, Esq. Barnes Terrace, 
Surrey. 

Creswick, Thomas, Esq. Chandos Street. 
Cuff, J. J. Esq. Richmond. 

Cuff, Mr. jun. Freemason’s Tavern. 

Dawkins, James, Esq. M. P. Richmond. 
Dagley, Richard, Esq. Earl’s Court. 
Darnill, Mr. James, Richmond. 

Day, W. Esq. Isleworth. 

De Burgh, Miss, Twickenham. 





VI 


NAMES OF THE SUBSCRIBERS. 


Demainbray, Rev. S. Richmond Green. 
Dick, Mungo, Esq. Richmond. 

Dixon, Joseph, Esq. Isleworth. 
Donaldson, Thomas Leverton, Esq. 
Architect, Hart Street, Bloomsbury. 

Elibank, Lady, Kew. 

Eling, Mrs. Ormond Row, Richmond. 
Ellerker, Mrs. Richmond Hill. 

Elliott, Mr. Twickenham. 

Farnell, Henry, Esq. Isleworth. 

Farnell, John, Esq. Isleworth. 

Fawssett, Miss, Ramsgate. 

Fenwick, Thomas, Esq. Burrow Hall, 
Lancashire. 

Field, George, Esq. Marlborough Park, 
Brentford. 

Fisher, Joseph, Esq. Isleworth. 

Fuller, Messrs. Rathbone Place. 

Gray, Right Hon. Lord, Twickenham. 
Gascoyne, Miss, Twickenham. 

Glossop, Rev. Henry, Isleworth. 

Glynn, Mr. Pall Mall. 

Halford, Cart. John, Esq. Richmond. 
Hammersley, Miss Maria, Park Cres¬ 
cent, Portland Place. 

Harris, J. Owen, Esq. Richmond Green. 
Hawkins, Miss, Twickenham. 

Hawkins, Mr. J. H. Warren Street. 
Hennah, Henry, Esq. Essex Street, 
Strand. 

Hewlett, James, Esq. Isleworth. 
Hofland, Mrs. Newman Street. 

Hughes, Mrs. Dr. Uffington, Berks. 
Hughes, John, Esq. Tavistock Row. 
Hunt, Mr. A. Bold Street, Liverpool. 


James, Miss, Canterbury. 

Jelf, Rev. Mr. Kew. 

Jennings and Chaplin, Messrs. Cheap- 
side. 

Ingram, Mr. North Place, Gray’s Inn 
Road. 

Key, Mr. W. Cambridge. 

Lamb, Honourable Mrs. Richmond. 

Lamb, Mr. Gracechurch Street. 

Larchin, Mr. Richmond. 

Lawes, Robert, Esq. Birchin Lane. 

Lee, Rev. William, New College, Ox¬ 
ford. 

Leggatt and Co. Messrs. Cornhill. 

Linnecar, Mr. George, Liverpool. 

Lonsdale, Rev. John, Rectory, Blooms¬ 
bury. 

Morshead, Lady, Richmond Hill. 

Morison, John, Esq. M. P. New Bur¬ 
lington Street. 

Mackinnon, Mrs. Flam Common. 

Mathews, Mrs. Twickenham. 

Matthews, Richard Hunt, Esq. Twick¬ 
enham. 

Miller, Miss, Petersham. 

Molteno and Graves, Messrs. Pall Mall. 

Morant, George, Esq. Wimpole Street. 

Montgomerie, C. Esq. Richmond. 

Moon, Boys, and Graves, Messrs. Pall 
Mall. 

Morgan, Mrs. Twickenham Park. 

Northumberland, His Grace the Duke 
of, 2 copies. 

Northumberland, Her Grace the Duchess 
of, 4 copies. 




NAMES OF THE SUBSCRIBERS. 


Noel, Honourable and Rev. Gerard, 
M. A. 

Nash, Joseph, Esq. Dulwich Common. 

Neale, Gilbert Neville, Esq. Richmond 
Green. 

Nixon, Mrs. Charlotte Street, Blooms¬ 
bury. 

f 

Poulett, Right Honourable Countess, 
Twickenham. 

Pococke, Sir George, Bart. Twicken¬ 
ham. 

Palmer, the late Mrs. Ham Common. 

Peat, Right Rev. Sir Robert, Vicarage, 
New Brentford. 

Penn, Granville, Esq. Richmond. 

Pincutt and Hobbs, the Misses, Isle- 
worth. 

Pitman, Rev. J. R. Kensington. 

Plinck, Mr. 

Price, Thomas, Esq. Richmond. 

Protapopoffe, Mr. Richmond. 

Roxburgh, Her Grace the Duchess of, 
Twickenham. 

Rogers, Edward, Es q .M. P. Stanage 
Park. 

Ramsden, Capt. Twickenham. 

Rawes, R. L. Esq. Richmond. 

Richardson, Mr. J. M. Cornhill. 

Roberts, Mrs. Cardigan House, Rich¬ 
mond Hill. 

Robertson, Charles John, Esq. Worton 
House. 

Robson, Miss, Isleworth. 

Stafford, Most Honourable Marquess of. 

Sullivan, Lady, Richmond Green. 


vii 

Salt, John Stevenson, Esq. Russell 
Square, 2 Sets. 

Scobell, Mrs. Richmond. 

Shaw, Mrs. Richmond Green. 

Shuckard, Miss Ann, Brighton. 

Skinner, Mrs. Hill Street, Richmond. 
Smith, William, Esq. Hill Street, Rich¬ 
mond, 2 Sets. 

Smith, Robert, Esq. Richmond Green. 
Smith, William, Esq. Trevor Square. 
Smith, Frederick, Esq. Wakefield. 
Stanborough, Mrs. James, Isleworth. 
Strongitharm, Mr. Piccadilly. 

Taylor, Miss, Bridge House, Richmond. 
Thackwait, Miss, Richmond. 

Thorley, Robert, Esq. Petersham. 

Tiffin, Mr. Strand. 

Tilt, Mr. Charles, Fleet Street. 

Todd, Thomas, Esq. Twickenham Park, 
3 Sets. 

Tregent, Miss, Charlotte Street, Blooms¬ 
bury. 

Tubbs, Mrs. Twickenham. 

Tyrrell, John, Esq. Lincoln’s Inn. 

Vaughan, Mr. Richard, Cheapside. 
Vine, James, Esq. Isle of Wight. 

Wellesley, Most Honourable Marquess, 
Marble Hall, Twickenham. 

Walpole, Miss, Petersham. 

Ware, John, Esq. Kingsland Road. 
White, Mrs. Twickenham Park. 
Whittingham, C. Esq. Chiswick. 
Williams, Mrs. Russell Square. 
Williams, Thomas, Esq. Richmond Hill, 
2 Sets. 






LIST 


OF THE 

TWENTY-FOUR PLATES AND ELEVEN VIGNETTES 

CONTAINED IN THE WORK. 


PLATE DRAWN BY 

1. Richmond Hill.J. D. Harding. 

* 2. Cholmondeley Walk, Richmond.J. D. Harding. 

3. Riverside Villa (formerly called Asgill House) Seat of 

the late Mrs. Palmer *.. J. D. Harding. 

4. Asgill House (now called Riverside Villa) ditto . . J. D. Harding. 

* 5. Richmond Bridge, taken near the Steps .J. D. Harding. 

6. The Toll-house, Richmond Bridge, taken near the 

Talbot Inn.J. D. Harding. 

7. View from Richmond Bridge, looking towards Twicken¬ 

ham .J. D. Harding. 

8. View from Richmond Bridge, looking towards Isle- 

worth.— Steamer departing .J. D. Harding. 

9. Richmond Bridge, seen from the rustic Arbour of 

Samuel Paynter, Esq.J. D. Harding. 

10. The Duke of Buccleugh’s Seat .G. Barnard. 

11. Marble Hill Cottage in Twickenham Meadows, the 

property of Timothy Brent, Esq.G. Barnard. 

12. Richmond, seen from Petersham Meadows, with Arch¬ 

deacon Cambridge’s New Villa.J. D. Harding. 

13. Sir George Pococke’s Seat, with the Aspin Trees at 

Twickenham. The Villa of the Honourable the Misses 

Byng in the Distance.J. D. Harding. 

14. Twickenham, taken near Ham House.J. D. Harding. 

15. View from Twickenham, looking towards Richmond 

Hill . J. D. Harding. 

* The Publisher cannot forbear adverting to the untimely death of this excellent lady, which he sincerely 
laments, and shall always recollect with sincere gratitude her generous conduct to him, and of her being one 
of the earliest subscribers to the work. 

b 
















X 


LIST OF PLATES. 


PLATE DRAWN BY 

16. Strawberry Hill.G. Barnard. 

17. The Lodge Entrance to Archdeacon Cambridge’s 

Grounds, Twickenham.. . J. D. Harding. 

18. Richmond, seen from Twickenham Park.J. D. Harding. 

19. Observatory and Obelisks in Richmond Park . . . G. Barnard. 

20. St. Margaret’s, Twickenham Park, Seat, of the Earl of 

Cassillis.... Frederick Smith. 

21. Isleworth Ferry.G. Barnard. 

22. The Pavilion in the Grounds of Syon House, the Seat 

of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland (usually 

called the Boat House).J. D. Harding. 

23. Syon House, the Seat of the Duke of Northumberland ; 

the City Barge going to Twickenham .J. D. Harding. 

24. Summer-house of Thomson the Poet, where he com¬ 

posed “ The Seasons,” in the Grounds of Rosedale 
House, belonging to the Earl of Shaftesbury . . . G. Barnard. 

Vignette of the New Church, Lewis Vulliamy, Esq. 

Architect. 

VIGNETTES, 

AS ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE LETTERPRESS, 

ENGRAVED ON WOOD BY MESSRS. BRANSTON AND WRIGHT, AS FOLLOW: 

Page 

The Lord Mayor’s Barge at Twickenham.1 

The Cypress-tree in the Garden of Lady Sullivan.11 

Tablet Monument, in Marble, by Flaxman, to the Memory of Mrs. Barbara 

Lowther, Richmond Church .-.17 

The Theatre, and Remains of the Elm on Richmond Green planted by 

Queen Elizabeth .19 

The Star and Garter Tavern, and Park Gates.26 

Scene in Petersham Wood, near the Park Gates.29 

Twickenham Church ..48 

A View near Lawn Cottage, formerly called Ragman’s Castle, Twickenham 50 

Isleworth Church.60 

The Pagoda in Kew Gardens..68 
















































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Erg-raved "kv Frederick Smith 


©BSERTATOMY-AM]) OBELISKS IE MCHMOTB OARB1ENS 


londcn Tublifhed, June! 163L by WB. CooTceZI Charlotte Str r Bfootnsburu 



















































































































































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THE HEW OHJRCH AT RICHMOND. 

ERECTED 1831. 


i he New Church in Kew Lane, Richmond, lately erected upon the plans, and under 
the superintendence of Mr. Vulliamy, exhibits the general excellence of this Architect’s 
works*. It is in the Gothic style of the beginning of the fourteenth century, and is 
one hundred and twelve feet long, fifty feet wide, and eighty-four feet high to the 
turret. 

At the west front there is a handsome entrance in the centre, with a decorated 
window, on each side of which is a gothic niche. Above are flying buttresses and an 
enriched gable, the whole being surmounted with a light and elegant bell turret, which 
terminates in a small spire. The general effect is singularly pleasing, and combines 
in the happiest manner the graceful lightness of gothic architecture, with that character 
of venerable stability so desirable in a building dedicated to the most sacred purposes, 
and connected with the most awful and endearing interests of future generations. 

The cost of this Church, which was less than £.6000, was defrayed partly by his 
Majesty’s Commissioners for building places of worship, and partly by subscription 
amongst the Inhabitants. 

The Site was given by William Selwyn, Esq. The expenses of the Organ, Clock, 
and handsome Iron Palisading, in imitation of a rich gothic screen, with the whole of 
the interior furniture, together amounting to nearly £.1000, were defrayed by the 
subscriptions of the Inhabitants. 

The Plate for the Communion Service was presented by Mrs. Savage, of Kingston, 
and Miss Selwyn. 

* The new Churches at Highgate, Kensington, Woburn Square, and Sydenham are the works of the 
same distinguished Architect. 































X 


RICHMOND. 



THE LORD MAYOR’S EARGE. 


INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 


Slow let us trace the matchless Yale of Thames; 

Fair-winding- up to where the Muses haunt 

In Twit’nam’s bowers- 

Enchanting vale! beyond whate’er the Muse 
Has of Achaia or Hesperia sung! 

Thomson. 

The village of Richmond, from the singular beauty of its situation, from 
being for many generations a royal residence, and inhabited by persons of 
rank, wealth, or fame, has always enjoyed extraordinary celebrity, yet no 
work illustrative of its peculiar beauties has hitherto been offered to the 
public. Views of its most striking scenes have been repeatedly given of great 
attraction, but no regular succession of beautiful and interesting objects, 

B 






































RICHMOND. 


o 

£md 

calculated to display its familiar yet captivating lineaments, has appeared. 
It is therefore presumed, that the present Work will supply to many the 
power of retracing objects long known and highly appreciated, and offer to 
strangers the gratification of curiosity laudably exercised. In the present 
day many places, of far inferior interest and pretension to Richmond, have 
received those records of the pencil the artist alone can bestow, and which the 
publisher of these views is desirous of supplying to the most distinguished 
village in the kingdom; and although sensible that he offers only a portion of 
the beauties of Richmond, he trusts enough will be found to give individuality 
to the scenes depicted, and stamp the memory of existing mansions, peculiar 
combinations, and the endearing* associations of its former honours. 

The history of Richmond, as it exists in books of antiquarian research, is 
less known probably than its present appearance, but every one is aware that 
few places on record are more distinguished. Wheresoever we may wander 
in Richmond, or its environs, the steps of the “ mighty dead'' have trodden 
there before us; and cold must be the heart and barren the imagination, that 
will not, in the hour of solitary wandering, people the green vale and em¬ 
bowering woods, with shades of the departed, whose names dwell in the 
annals of history or glow in the page of poesy. As we climb the hill we think 
on the aspiring and talented Wolsey, who dwelt for a time in the lodge of the 
park and afterwards in the palace; and returning, we view trees planted by 
the hands of Lord Bacon in Twickenham meadows. The tender sorrows of 
Richard II., who here lost his beloved queen; the gallant bearing, and 
splendid devotion of the fifth Henry—the domestic affliction of the Eighth— 
the death of his glorious daughter, and the woes of her successors, crowd by 
turns upon our minds, till we seek refuge from painful recollection in the 
placid splendour of later times. Times when the muse of Pope gave death¬ 
less brilliance to the bowers of Twickenham, the sportive wit of Swift threw 
flashes of radiance on either bank of the Thames, and the lyre of Thomson 
recorded the charms of Richmond. 

A very useful little work, from the pen of Mr. Evans, entitled “ A Guide 
to Richmond,” has combined much information on its past and present state, 
but as it has no embellishments, and Mr. Maurice’s Poem, though offered in a 
magnificent style, boasts only of two plates, it is presumed therefore that an 
embellished work like the present, neither too expensive for the economical, nor 
too humble for the elegant purchaser, is entitled to attention. Its pretensions 




RTCHMOND. 


3 


to public favour are founded on its graphic fidelity, and that tasteful treat¬ 
ment which the artists employed have endeavoured to diffuse through their 
subjects. 

Since it must be allowed (by even the most laborious reader), that words 
can never supply the power of forms, or awaken ideas of actual objects 
with any degree of accuracy, so it will be evident, that descriptive writing 
must offer very secondary and inferior gratification in a work which appeals 
to the eye for approbation, and courts the judgment through the medium 
of observation, reflection, and cultivated taste. In this case the pen (that 
bold and discriminating delineator of “ things unseen”), becomes the mere 
handmaid of the sister art, and conscious of inability to aid the effects or 
supply the deficiencies of the pencil, seeks only to connect those scenes 
w r hich charm the eye, with those remembrances which elevate the mind or 
touch the heart. 

Under this view of the subject, the writer enters upon a task which she 
considers too humble to subject her to criticism it would otherwise be her 
duty to deprecate. That which she will hereafter offer as historic record, has 
been gathered from sources of undeniable authority open to every diligent 
seeker in the British Museum—that which belongs to biographical memoirs 
is gleaned from modern publications, or private information accorded to her 
by persons of high respectability. Should she be deemed too enthusiastic an 
admirer of the scenes she describes, a residence of several years amongst them 
will be deemed her apology, together with the recollection that as the com¬ 
panion of a landscape painter (devoted with no common enthusiasm to his art), 
it was natural that somewhat of his feelings should be imbibed by one alive to 
their interest and excellence. 


RICHMOND. 


CHAPTER II. 

Fain would I linger 'mong these fairy bowers, 

Aloof from manhood's feverish hopes and fears. 

Where Innocence among’ the vernal flowers 

Leads young Delight, aye laughing through his tears ; 

But lo ! the cruel spectre Time appears 
(Half hid amidst the foliage bright with plasm) 

Weaving his ceaseless web of hours and years. 

Pringle. 

The ancient name of Richmond was Shene or Seyne, the Saxon word for 
splendour. It has been erroneously supposed to owe this appellation to the 
circumstance of its having been a royal residence, but since it was thus named 
not only before it possessed a palace, but previous to the residence of any 
sovereign, we have a right to infer that the name was derived from the peculiar 
characteristics of the spot. The gentle windings of the calm, majestic Thames 
round the foot of the wood-crowned hill—the rich meadows that dip their 
emerald banks into the pellucid waves of this noble river—the wide spread 
landscape seen from its heights—its short distance from the metropolis, which 
afforded a temptation for the wealthy and gay, to build country houses in its 
beautifully wooded retreats, all conspire to account for a name so strictly 
descriptive of the place. Its present name of Richmond was bestowed by 
Henry VII. in commemoration of his former title as Earl of Richmond in 
Yorkshire, and as a mark of his especial partiality to a retirement in which he 
probably spent his happiest hours, and where he undoubtedly expended lavishly 
that money he had gathered with more avidity than wisdom from his oppressed 
subjects. 

Holinshed says, when speaking of this village, “ the former kings of this 




RICHMOND. 


5 


land when weary of the citie used customarily thither to resorte as to a place 
of pleasure, and serving highly to their recreation, but Lysons informs us that 
the first mention he finds of it was in the reign of King John. “ It was then 
the property of Michael Belet, who held it by the service of being the king s 
butler, having been granted to his ancestors with that office annexed by 
Henry I. John, son of this Michael Belet, left two daughters, between whom 
the manor was divided; one of them married Jorden Oliver, and the other 
John de Valletort. Emma Oliver’s share was afterwards alienated to Gilbert 
de Clare, Earl of Gloucester. In the reign of Edward III. this moiety of the 
manor of Shene was purchased of Hugh de Windlesor, Bishop of Bath and 
Wells. The other moiety in the reign of Edward I. was in the possession of 
the Valletorts;" and we find that each was held on the condition of being joint 
cupbearers to the king, or of finding two silver cups on the day of the coronation. 
The office of royal butler being held a place of high consideration, we learn 
that both parts of this estate soon afterwards became again the property of the 
crown, and has remained so, with some partial grants and alienations for a 
given term, ever since. It has been frequently the endowment of queens at 
the time of their marriage or widowhood, and was so given to the consort of 
George III.; but her majesty's lease was dated in 1770, several years (of 
course) after marriage. 

Richmond lies in the hundred of Kingston, and is bounded by Mortlake, 
Kew, and Petersham, being about eight miles from Hyde Park Corner—it is 
built irregularly, running up the side of the hill (which is its most distinguished 
part) from East Sheen, about three quarters of a mile. A small hamlet called 
West Sheen was formerly joined to Richmond, after the place in question 
obtained its present name, but it has been completely obliterated for nearly 
sixty years. 

The Manor House at Richmond, which afterwards became the site of the 
palace, was situated upon the green, near the river, and within a short distance 
of the most convenient ferry, where the bridge now crosses the Thames. It 
is supposed that Henry I. inhabited it before he bestowed it on the Belets. 
The first and second Edward frequently resided there, and the third closed 
his glorious reign at Sheen, which is at this period recognised as a palace. 
Richard II. had the misfortune to lose his amiable queen at Richmond, 
and so severely did her death affect him, that he is said to have commanded 
the palace to be destroyed, and every vestige of the gardens obliterated, 


6 


RICHMOND. 


in which he had experienced that happiness he could enjoy no longer. 
However natural the expression of sorrow, rendered frantic by blighted hope, 
might be in this prince, we have yet no reason to suppose the dictates of 
its violent emotions were acted upon, as it is certain that within a short time 
the place was again inhabited ; for after the deposition of that unfortunate 
monarch, his successor frequently used Richmond as an occasional residence. 

It was not however until the reign of Henry V. that we apprehend this 
palace really assumed the character of a regal habitation, or boasted the 
residence of a noble court, for we learn expressly that he rebuilt the palace, 
and made it “ a delightful mansion of curious and costly workmanship, 
befitting the character and condition of a king.” Nor did his benefits to 
this place centre in providing for his own splendour and comfort. Conscious 
that he held the crown by an usurped tenor, and that the faults of his own 
early life called for expiation, not less than those of his politic sire, this gallant 
prince, during his short reign, was divided between his duties as a warrior and 
a zealous churchman. He built a monastery at Sion, and another at Richmond, 
both of which were richly endowed, and are thus described by Shakspeare, in 
that address which he puts into the mouth of Henry on the eve of the battle of 
Agincourt: 

“ Five hundred poor have I in yearly pay. 

Who twice a day their wither’d hands hold up 
Towards heaven to pardon blood; and I have built 
Two Chantries, where the sad and solemn priests 
Still sing for Richard’s soul.” 

We do not find that Henry VI. resided at Richmond during any part of his 
troublesome reign; and from his preference of Windsor, probably arose his 
intention of laying near that residence, the noble foundation of Eton College, 

“ Where grateful science still adores 
Her Henry’s holy shade.” 

And during the desolating wars of the Roses, it is likely that the neglected 
palace shared in the evils of the times. Edward IV. undoubtedly repaired 
it so far as to render it a meet residence for his queen, to whom he 
bequeathed it; but the ill fated Elizabeth, after her many reverses and 
misfortunes, being condemned to end her days in the convent of Bermondsey 
by her hardhearted son-in-law, he took possession of it himself. 


RICHMOND. 


7 


This monarch was unquestionably more attached to Richmond than any 
who preceded him, for he not only gave it this name, but held here a grand 
tournament, at which Sir James Parker was killed in a controversy with 
Hugh Vaughan, and enlarged the palace so as to render it very sumptuous. 
In particular we learn that he built there a gallery upwards of a hundred feet 
in length, which fell down immediately after the king and the young prince 
his son had been walking in it. The palace was also set on fire by accident, 
and most of the older part consumed; but this circumstance appears only to 
have given the king new occasion for rebuilding it with more magnificence, 
and finishing it in the most costly manner; and when we recollect that this 
work was carrying on at the same period, and under the same auspices, with 
Henry’s Chapel at Westminster, we can neither doubt the taste, nor the 
elaborate ornament displayed in it. 

The late Lord Viscount Fitzwilliam had a picture of this palace taken from 
the opposite bank of the Thames, which, with the rest of his collection, he 
bequeathed to the university of Cambridge, where it now is, together with one 
purporting to be a view of the same palace fronting the green. The latter does 
not accord with any given description of the place in the various surveys which 
have been taken, nor with the gateway standing at this time, and is generally 
concluded to be the front of the lodge in the old park, but the first is unques¬ 
tionably a faithful representation, since it agrees in every respect with the 
description given hereafter. 

In this magnificent new palace Henry VII. entertained Philip I. King of 
Spain, when driven by a storm on the coast in 1506, and three years after¬ 
wards he died here. His successor, young, expensive, fond of displaying his 
fine person, and those accomplishments held paramount in the times, held a 
tournament here, and for the first time took an active part in it. We have no 
doubt that this grand display of martial exercises and national wealth, took 
place on the green, which then doubtless extended into the old park, all of 
which as far as Kew was probably open to the crowds which would inevitably 
press to behold a spectacle so attractive. Whatever may be thought in the 
present times of the wisdom or expediency of these chivalric games, it must be 
allowed by all, that no place could be better calculated for the purpose. The 
perfect flatness of the extensive greensward, shaded by noble trees, the 
boundary line of the broad silvery stream covered with vessels, the temporary 


8 


RICHMOND. 


galleries erected for the ladies of the court—numerous retainers in rich liveries, 
prancing steeds in gorgeous trappings, gay pennons, glittering hauberks, cloaks 
of golden tissue, and embossed suits of armour, must have given an air of 
splendour and cheerfulness to the scene, far more imposing than any assem¬ 
blage of the gay and the great is in the present day calculated to inspire. 

When Cardinal Wolsey gave the lease of Hampton Court to the king, 
his majesty permitted him to reside in Richmond Palace, a privilege of which 
he frequently availed himself. Hall says that “ when the common people, and 
especially such as had been servants to Henry VII. saw the Cardinal keep 
house in the royal manor of Richmond, which that monarch so highly esteemed, 
it was a marvel to hear how they grudged, saying, £ so a butcher's dog doth lie 
in the manor of Richmond they were still more disgusted at the Cardinal's 
keeping his Christmas there openly with great state, when the King himself 
observed that feast with the utmost privacy at Eltliam, on account of the 
plague.” See Lysons. 

During the reign of Queen Mary her illustrious sister Elizabeth was for 
some time imprisoned in Richmond Palace, but this circumstance by no means 
gave her a distaste to the place, as she continued partial to it as a residence 
during her long reign, and finally ended her days within its walls. In Rich¬ 
mond, we may suppose, she laid down at once the cares of royalty, and that 
wisdom which in. all the weightier affairs of life never forsook her; for here we 
are told even very late in her life “that six or seven gallyards of a morning, 
besides musicke and syngynge was her ordinary exercyseand we learn that 
at Richmond Anthony Rudd, Bishop of St. David’s, incurred her majesty's 
displeasure by preaching before the court on the infirmities of old age, 
applying his discourse personally to her majesty, and observing that time 
“ had furrowed her face, and besprinkled her hair with its meal.'’ 

In the autumn of 1603 the Court of Exchequer and the Court of Chancery 
were removed to Richmond on account of the plague. During the reign of 
James I. his eldest son, Henry, very often resided at Richmond, and his 
brother, the unfortunate Charles I, not only lived here frequently, but made a 
large collection of pictures for this palace. We have reason to believe that in 
this place Charles II. resided with his governor, Bishop Duppa, before his 
father’s troubles—these, indeed, might be said to have their beginning in 
Richmond, for the anxiety the king showed for extending the New, or Great 




RICHMOND. 


9 


Park, and the opposition he met with from his subjects on that point, showed 
unhappily his own intolerant sense of his rights, and their obstinate resistance 
to his wishes. 

In the reign of Henry we know there were two parks in Richmond, distin¬ 
guished by the names of the Old and New, or the Great and Little Park. It 
is supposed they were laid together, one* only being recognised in the survey 
of 1649. “ The lodge in the Old Park was for some time the residence of 

Cardinal Wolsey in his disgrace; the cardinal,” says Stow, “ having licence 
to repair unto Richmond, was there lodged within the lodge of the Great 
Park, which was a very prettie house; there my lord lay until Lent, with 
a pretty number of servants. He afterwards repaired to the priory.” See 
Lysons. 

Charles I. was excessively fond of hunting, and it was to enjoy that sport 
in perfection, that he extended the New Park to its present boundaries at a 
great expense, by the purchases he made from different land owners, and the 
loss of esteem from such purchase being frequently contrary to the will of the 
seller. “In the month of June, 1649, Richmond Palace was prepared for 
the king’s reception, but he refused to go thither.” We find however that in 
August, that year, the Prince Elector and the Duke of York hunted with his 
majesty in the New Park, and killed a stag and a buck, and it is said, “ his 
majesty was very cheerful, and afterwards dined with his children at Syon.” 
When we consider how rapidly the imprisonment of this unhappy monarch 
followed, we may conclude that this was the last time in which he did thus 
enjoy the society of his beloved young family and their idolized mother. 
During the remaining period of his life, trouble and confusion, the anxieties 
of imprisonment, escape, justification and concession, alternately occupied his 
time and his attention, and the pleasures of parental love thus received their 
last indulgence (in a heart calculated to enjoy them to the utmost) amidst 
scenes of beauty his mind was not less fitted to admire and improve. 

In the year 1649 all was over, and the palace being seized by the parlia¬ 
ment, an accurate survey of it was taken. The great hall was one hundred 
feet in length, and forty in breadth ; it is described as having a screen at the 
lower end, over which says the survey, “ is a fayr foot pace in the higher end 
thereof, the pavement is square tile, and is very well lighted and seeled; at 
the north end is a turret or clock case, covered with lead, which is a special 
ornament to that building.” The priory lodgings are described as a freestone 


c 


10 


RICHMOND. 


building, three stories high, with fourteen turrets covered with lead, “ a very 
graceful ornament to the whole house, and perspicuous to the country round 
about.” A round building is mentioned, called the “ canted tower," with a 
staircase of one hundred and twenty-four steps. The chapel was ninety-six 
feet long, and forty broad, “ with cathedral seats and pews." Adjoining the 
priory garden was an open gallery, two hundred feet long, over which was a 
close gallery of the same length. 

No mention is made of a library, but we learn from a French author, that 
one was established at Richmond by Henry VIII. and it is certain that Queen 
Elizabeth had a librarian here, with a fee of ten pounds per annum. The 
materials of the palace were valued at ten thousand seven hundred and 
eighty-two pounds, nineteen shillings, and purchased by Thomas Rukesby, 
William Goodrich, and Adam Baynes: it was afterwards in possession of 
Sir Gregory Norton, who died before the Restoration. 

“ Soon after the return of King Charles II. several boats laded with rich 
and curious effigies, formerly belonging to Charles I., but since alienated,” are 
said to have been brought from Richmond to Whitehall. And we learn after 
this time, that the manor and palace of Richmond, formerly settled on the 
queen mother, were restored to her. That she found it in a dilapidated 
state we can hardly doubt, but being a large building, great part was 
probably habitable, seeing that much of it has been taken down only within 
the last half century, and the offices are inhabited at this time by Mr. Julius 
and Lady Sullivan. 

During the reign of James II. it was in the hands of the crown (his son 
being nursed there), but in the successive reign it was inhabited only by two 
ladies; and when the Princess Anne desired from the crown the use of it, 
“ as a place endeared to her in childhood,” she was refused. The site of the 
palace is now occupied by several houses held on lease under the crown. 
The dwellings inhabited as a house, were described in the Survey as “ the 
wardrobe buildings and other offices, consisting of three fayr ranges of 
buildings lying round a fayr and spacious court; embattled, and guttured, 
of two stories high, with garrets, and a fayr pair of strong gates, arched and 
battled; with stone over head; leading into the said court from the green 
lying before Richmond House.” In the garden of Lady Sullivan there still 
exists an old cypress tree, mentioned in the same Survey, and valued at ten 
pounds. The trunk of this tree measures ten feet in circumference. 


RICHMOND. 


1 J 



THE CYPRESS TREE IN THE GARDEN OF LADY SULLIVAN. 


This vegetable memorial of former times, has outlived ail elm # on the 
Green, near the theatre, long consecrated to the memory of Queen Elizabeth, 
and said to be planted by her own hand. Though completely decayed, one 
remaining branch still lived and flourished till the year 1827. The trunk 
is entirely covered with ivy, and appears at present a low bush of foliage, 
but being encircled by railing, it marks the spot thus honoured by the virgin 
Queen, most probably in the days of her captivity. 

A large house, sometime in possession of the Duke of Queensberry, was 
built on the site of the palace, and its garden was thrown into that of the 
duke which it joined, and the elegant Italian villa, designed and built by 
Sir Robert Taylor, architect, formerly belonging to Sir Charles Asgill, 
remarkable for its chaste style and simple elegance, and now in possession 
of Mrs. Palmer, was also on the site of the palace, from which we may 
judge of its extent. Two views of Asgill House are given in this work. 
A plate of it was also engraved for the Vitruvius Britannicus, and has been 
long esteemed one of the most remarkable features of this place. 

Such are the remains of the once gay and splendid Palace of Richmond; 
of its Convents, at one time no less remarkable, we have fewer vestiges; for 
although a lane leading from the side of the palace offices, called “ Friar s 


* See wood-cut of the theatre, page 19, in which the remains of the aged elm planted by 
Queen Elizabeth is represented. 





12 


RICHMOND. 


Lane/* marks the place where Henry VII. founded the convent of Observant 
Friars; beyond the strong wall (which might have been the boundary either 
of the convent or the palace) we have no particular object indicative ot its 
former occupations. A part of the convent was within the purchase made 
by the Duke of Queensberry, and was taken doAvn by him, and probably 
other portions of it came within the site of two houses still standing, but 
which do not exhibit any memorials of antiquity at this period. 

“ Within a quarter of a mile to the north-west of the palace, stood the 
hamlet of West Sheen/’ when Henry V. founded the convent alluded to 
in the introduction, called “ the House of Jesus of Bethlehem.” These 
premises are said to have been three thousand one hundred and twenty-five 
feet in length, and one thousand three hundred and five in breadth. The 
hall, quadrangle, and cloisters, were all consequently large and commodious, 
and the monastery was endowed with six priories, their lands and revenues, 
together with the fisheries of Sheen and Petersham, and four pipes of the red 
wine of Vascony every year. Within the walls was an hermitage endowed 
with twenty marks, and no means appear to have been spared by the regal 
founder, for adding to the magnificence and comfort of this establishment, 
which was farther aided by Henry VII. and even his successor in the early 
part of his reign. At the time of its suppression, the revenues were found 
to be seven hundred and seventy-seven pounds, twelve shillings, and a 
penny. 

Perkin Warbeck, whose truth, or imposture, is scarcely yet determined, 
during one period of his eventful life sought an asylum within the walls of 
this convent. Dean Colet, the good and learned founder of St. Paul’s school, 
retired hither, and died in a house built near the convent; and Cardinal Pole 
resided here for two years. It has been said that the body of the Scottish 
King, James IV., slain at the battle of Flodden Field, was brought thence 
to this monastery; and Stow informs us, that about the year 1552, he saw 
a body wrapped in lead, which was thrown into a lumber room, and that 
he was told it was that of the Scottish King which lay there unburied. 
Several historians have doubted the fact of this body being that of the 
unfortunate monarch; and we are willing rather to join them, than believe 
that so gallant a prince received, even from his enemies, no better usage than 
this account implies. The beautiful poem of the Lady of the Lake gives 
us an interest in the noble k4 James Fitz James;’ and those who combine 
the memorials of the poet with the annals of the historian, can ill brook 


RICHMOND. 


13 


dishonour to the remains of one who appears brilliant, though unfortunate, 
in the pages of both. 

“ The priory of Sheen was granted by Henry VIII. to his favourite, the 
Earl of Hertford, afterwards Duke of Somerset. In the year 1550, two 
splendid nuptial ceremonies were then celebrated in the king’s presence; 
Lord Lisle being married to a daughter of the Duke of Somerset, and 
Sir Robert Dudley, afterwards Earl of Leicester, to Amy, daughter of 
Sir John Robsart." Ten years after, we find this nobleman high in the 
favour of Queen Elizabeth, and is then said “ to be labouring under the 
imputation of having poisoned his wife, that he might be at liberty to 
marry his sovereign/’ From these materials the great magician of the north 
has raised the structure of his novel of Kenilworth, and presented us in the 
manners of the times, not less than the characters of the parties, pictures of 
fidelity and beauty, of power to render every scene interesting, connected with 
his descriptions. 

Henry, Duke of Somerset, being attainted in 1551, the site of the priory 
of Sheen was given to the Duke of Suffolk, father of Lady Jane Grey, and 
as he resided there, the memory of this lovely and ill fated woman, blends 
recollections of her beauty, gentleness, and piety, with the scenes she was so 
well fitted to enjoy, and to adorn. Of all the highborn and lovely, whose 
feet have trod the court of Richmond, not one was more calculated to grace 
it—of all the distinguished mourners who have sighed beneath its shades, 
not one experienced sorrow so unmerited as hers. The misfortunes of Mary 
Queen of Scots, in the following reign, have excited more attention from 
their longer continuance, and the controversy awakened as to her character, 
but only one opinion can be entertained, one sentiment be felt, for a victim 
so young and fair, so innocent and good, so wise, yet so humble, as this 
illustrious victim. 

After the removal of this family, the convent was restored by Queen Mary, 
but as her death prepared the way for a second dissolution, the monks retired 
to Bruges, to Louvain, to Mecklin, and finally to Nieuport, in France; and 
the brotherhood existed till 1783, being the only English convent never 
completely dispersed. They were at that time reduced to three professed 
monks, and two lay brothers. 

Queen Elizabeth granted the priory for life to Sir Thomas Gorges, and 
his wife Helen. King Charles I. gave it on the same tenure to the Duke of 


14 


RICHMOND. 


Lennox. At the time of the parliamentary survey already mentioned, the 
buildings were minutely described, as consisting of u a church in a ruinous 
state, a structure of brick called the priors lodging; the monk’s hall, a stone 
building; the lady of St. John’s lodgings; the anchorite’s cell, and a parcel 
of buildings called the gallery.'' 

After the Restoration, a lease of the priory was granted to Lord Lisle, who 
assigned it to Lord Ballasys. It next became the residence of Viscount 
Bramber, and after him the celebrated Sir William Temple inhabited this 
place, and took much pleasure in cultivating the gardens there. He resided 
here at the time when he wrote his “ Observations on the Netherlands,'’ but 
gave up the house to his son, prior to the revolution, since at that period he 
“ returned thither, as thinking it a more secure abode than his residence at 
More Park in Surry." Here, he first patronised the celebrated Dean Swift, 
who resided with him till his death, and received from his bequest a handsome 
legacy. King William visited Sir William at this house frequently, and 
when walking in the garden, attended by Swift, taught him the Dutch method 
of cutting asparagus*. From many circumstances we are led to think that 
horticulture was successfully pursued at Richmond for many years, as in one 
of the pictures in the Strawberry Hill collection, we have a representation of 
the first pineapple grown in England, being presented to Charles II.; and 
in his letters, Sir William Temple speaks of “ improving the vines of Sheen, 
and obtaining a succession of cherries from May to Michaelmas.” It is 
probable that the monks had laid the foundation of a good garden at the 
priory, which a succession of noble and wealthy inhabitants had kept up, and 
which Sir William Temple rendered more perfect in consequence of his long 
residence in Holland, where the culture of exotics was studied at that time 
with great success. 

At this gentleman's seat flourished also, that still finer flower than all his 
gardens could boast, Miss Johnson, celebrated by Swift under the name of 
“ Stella,” a beautiful and accomplished girl, who at eighteen left her native 
country to marry Swift; who, after going through the ceremony, refused to 
acknowledge her as his wife, though he visited her constantly as a friend, 
thereby placing her character in an equivocal light, wounding her delicacy, 


* It is said that the king- offered Swift a commission in his army, which, as he was not 
then in the church nor any way provided for, it seems singular that he did not accept. 


RICHMOND. 


not less than her affections; and finally undermining’ her health, and con¬ 
demning her to a premature grave. 

“ In the year 1769, the last remains of the priory (an ancient gateway) 
was taken down, together with the whole hamlet of West Sheen, consisting 
of eighteen houses, and the site was made into a lawn, and added to the 
enclosures made by George III.” 

The most remarkable house upon Richmond Green, is that formerly 
inhabited by Sir Charles Hodges, secretary of state to Queen Anne, and 
probably built by him; since then it was the property of Sir Matthew 
Decker, an eminent Dutch merchant, who erected a room for the reception 
of George II. and his Queen. By natural descent, this house became the 
property and abode of Lord Fitzwilliam, who made here that collection of 
pictures which he bequeathed to the University of Cambridge; and to some 
of which we are indebted for the views of the ancient palace. It is at this 
time in the possession of the Countess of Pembroke. The garden belonging 
to this house was celebrated above a century since for its holly hedge, and 
was probably a rival to that of Sir William Temple. 

On the road to East Sheen (which is at this time a pretty considerable 
village) are several delightful villas, particularly about Marsh Gate, the most 
remarkable of which is Spring Grove. The house near the end of Kew Lane, 
inhabited by the Earl of Shaftesbury, is attractive to all the admirers of genius, 
as being long the residence of Thomson the poet; and the present noble pro¬ 
prietor has the good sense and feeling to preserve unchanged those peculiar 
memorials of him which captivate the heart and the fancy. His little parlour 
remains untouched by the hand of improvement, and the table and chair in 
the garden*, where he wrote some of the most beautiful and philosophical 


* In the garden seat of Thomson the following tablet is placed: 


Within this pleasing retirement, 

Allured by the music of the nightingale 
Which warbled in soft unison to the melody of his soul 
In unaffected cheerfulness, 

And genial though simple elegance, 

Lived 

JAMES THOMSON. 

Sensibly alive to all the beauties of Nature, 

He paiuted their images as they rose in review, 
And poured the whole profusion of them 
Into his inimitable Seasons. 


Warmed with intense devotion 
To the Sovereign of the Universe, 

Its flame glowed through all his compositions. 
Animated with unbounded benevolence, 
With the tenderest social sensibility, 

He never gave one moment’s pain 
To any of his fellow creatures, 

Save only by his death, which happened 
At this place on the 27th day of August, 
1748. 





16 


RICHMOND. 


poems his country can boast, still remain to awaken veneration and excite 
emotions, honourable alike to him who feels, and him who has merited 
them*. 

The church of Richmond, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, is first 
mentioned as the “ Chapel of Schene,' 1 in 1339, but probably existed before 
that time. It was repaired in 1750, and is now a large brick building, with 
a low embattled tower of stones and flints. The interior is much more striking 
than its outward appearance promises, being commodious as to size, and 
striking from the number of monuments it exhibits, but we do not find any of 
great antiquity; from whence we may conclude that the village of Richmond 
was not populous until after it had ceased to be occupied by the inhabitants 
of its palace and convents. 

As it is not our intention to give any catalogue of monuments and inscrip¬ 
tions, so well known as those of Richmond, we shall only observe that a 
monument of Flaxman’s to the memory of Mrs. Barbara Lowther is the finest 
specimen of the former; and the inscription on Thomson the poet, and the 
Reverend Thomas Wakefield, thirty years minister of this parish, most remark¬ 
able among the latter. From the register we learn that the Countess of Derby, 
mother of the loyal earl who was beheaded in 1657, died at Richmond, and 
was buried at the abbey. Lady Diana Beauclerc, who lived much in this 
neighbourhood, and enriched two houses by the beautiful productions of her 
pencil drawn upon the walls, was buried here in 1808. In the new burying 
ground lies the celebrated Dr. Moore, author of several works of great merit 
on different countries in Europe, and three admirable novels. He was the 
father of the brave and lamented Sir John Moore, with whom his earlier 
works make us acquainted, as the “ dear little Jack ” who accompanied him 
to Italy, and whose high spirit, and warm affections, gave promise of his 
future gallantry. 

In this cemetery lie also the remains of James Mallet du Pan, author of 
the Journal “ Mercure Britannique;” and James M‘Evoy and Sarah Kino, 
who were both cruelly murdered in their house in Kew Foot Lane, by 
John Little, a servant at the observatory in Richmond Gardens, to whom 


* The gardens of “Spring Glove'' are very beautiful, and are preserved in the best 
possible order; a remarkably fine silver cypress decorates the lawn, and many other tine 
trees of the most picturesque forms embellish the grounds. 


RICHMOND. 


17 


these people (who were both aged) had been particularly kind. The cries of 
his victims, whom the murderer dispatched by beating them on the head witli 
a large stone (one being above and the other below stairs) alarmed their 
neighbours, who arrived too late to preserve either, but secured the murderer, 
who suffered soon after. 



MONUMENT OF MRS. BARBARA LOWTHER, BY FLAXMAN. 


There is a handsome new Roman Catholic chapel at Richmond, within 
a little distance of the church ; also a Methodist meeting-house; a charity 
school, enriched by Lady Dorothy Capell in 1721 ; and four alms houses. 
The most remarkable of these was founded by Bishop Duppa, for ten poor 
women, in consequence of a vow which he had made during the banishment 
of King Charles II., to whom lie had been tutor. This place is upon the 
Hill. There is one of an older date, viz. 1600, in the Vineyards, for eight 
poor women, usually called “ Queen Elizabeths alms houses,” but it was built 
at the sole expense of Sir George Wright. 


D 














18 


RICHMOND. 


A third alms house for ten poor men (standing on the declivity of the 
Hill) was founded by Humphrey and John Michel, aided by bequests from 
William Smith. The fourth provides for nine poor women, being founded 
by Mrs. Rebecca and Mrs. Susannah Houblon, and bearing their name 
as “ Houblon's alms house.” 

In addition to these is a small house under the Hill on the Petersham 
road, which is appropriated to the relief of travelling mendicants. This 
charity was for a long time lost to the objects it was intended to relieve, and 
its funds converted to other purposes; but in consequence of the death of a 
poor man in this vicinity, the late Lord Kerry exerted himself to regain the 
property for its original intention, and finally succeeded. By this means 
three aged persons also find an asylum by living in the house, in order to 
administer to the wants of their wayfaring brethren. 

Before leaving the lower part of the town, we ought to say, that the Old 
Park, before the destruction of West Sheen, had been formed into gardens 
and pleasure grounds by Queen Caroline, wife of George II., whose con¬ 
struction of the cave of Merlin, the hermitage, and similar ornaments in 
French and Dutch taste, were, about a century since, the objects of great 
admiration, and much poetical panegyric. Influenced by a better taste, these 
petty ornaments were swept away by his majesty, George III., who restored 
the ground to its original appearance, and planted on the site of the magician's 
studia an observatory, which is a handsome building, properly endowed, and 
forming an agreeable object as it rises amid the towering elms which offer 
on every side a beauty consistent with the general character of the scenery. 
It has indeed been well remarked by M. Lewis Simond, that the elms of 
Richmond, in their extensive masses and towering height, compensate to the 
eye even for the want of mountains. Graceful in form, exuberant in foliage, 
whether forming clumps or appearing as single figures, they never fail to 
enrich the landscape and gratify the eye. 

In this ground are two obelisks raised by the same king to further the 
uses of the observatory. They also are very ornamental to the ground, and 
in accordance with the scenery around, from whatever point they catch the 
eye. 

The Theatre of Richmond was built under the superintendence of Garrick, 
about the middle of the last century, upon the Green near the remains of the 


RICHMOND. 


19 


palace. In summer time it is a source of much amusement to the visiters 
and inhabitants, as the principal actors from London frequently perform here, 
and at this time it is in the hands of the celebrated tragedian, Kean. The 
budge fiom Richmond to Twickenham was built in 1777 by subscription 
shaies, it is three hundred feet long, and is a handsome structure of five 
arches, but as several views are given in this work with scrupulous fidelity, 
further description is useless. 



THE THEATRE—AND REMAINS OF THE ELM PLANTED BY QUEEN ELIZABETH. 


The general appearance of the town, or rather village, of Richmond is 
by no means distinguished from similar places, except that the principal 
street is wider and more commodious than usual. There are no buildings 
conspicuous for antiquity, nor any displaying much of modern elegance; but 
the whole place bears the air of competence and bustle to be expected in 
a busy and attractive watering-place dependant on arrivals. The oldest 
house in the town is said to be that inhabited by Mr. Morris the upholder. 
It was formerly an inn, and from the remains of a fountain in the garden 
and the number of its contingent buildings, must have been a place of 
consequence. 

In the part called the Vineyards are many excellent houses, but so 
closely huddled together that they make little appearance. Ormond Row 
is crowned by Ormond House, where the duke of that title once resided. It 
is now divided into two dwellings, which are surrounded by gardens, and 
completely eclipsed by neighbouring houses as to beauty and importance. 































20 


RICH MONO. 


The inns at Richmond are excellent and numerous. There are several 
superior schools for youth of both sexes, three good libraries, a printing 
establishment, excellent shops, and whatever is necessary for the comforts 
and elegancies of life. Balls, concerts, and the theatre, provide for its 
amusements, together with the music and evening parades rendered peculiarly 
interesting by the influx of company, comprising the rank and fashion of 
England, together with numerous foreigners; since there are few persons 
who visit this country from the continent, who do not make it a point to see 
Richmond Hill. 


2] 


RICHMOND HILL. 


CHAPTER III. 

-thy hill, delightful Shene, 

On which the power of Cultivation sits, 

And joys to see the wonders of his hand. 

THOMSON. 

Our first view of Richmond Hill may be taken very advantageously from 
the middle of the bridge, the recesses in which (it will be perceived from 
the views) afford ample convenience for that purpose. A picture of the hill 
side of Richmond skirted by the Thames, with the opposite bank of Twicken¬ 
ham meadows, and the late seat of the venerable Archdeacon Cambridge (in 
whose possession it is), by old Tillemans, shows the great change which has 
taken place in little more than a century. Few houses, and those inconsider¬ 
able, are there seen in the whole extent from the ferry upward—the side of 
the Hill being covered with the same stunted brushwood which we now find 
only in the immediate vicinity of the Star and Garter Inn at the top of the 
Hill. At the present time, the eye wanders from one mansion to another, 
rising amid groves of stately trees, and adorned by gardens which descend 
towards the river. We understand that the house near to the bridge, and 
inhabited by Miss Taylor, was the first built of any within view. A little 
beyond this, and much nearer to the river, a white house with a noble portico 
(the residence of Mr. Painter) is a striking object, being surrounded with 
those fine trees which contrast so beautifully with the brilliant stone. Above, 
is the house inhabited by the late Countess of Cardigan, who within a few 
years entertained there the whole of the royal family in honour of the late 
king’s birthday. In the gardens the tents taken from Tippoo Sultan (and 
lent by Queen Charlotte) were erected, and magnificent collations spread in 





22 


RICHMOND HILL. 


them for the immense party assembled on this memorable occasion. Bands 
of music were dispersed throughout the gardens, and every means of gaiety 
resorted to for the amusement of the illustrious guests. The river was covered 
with pleasure boats, fdled with gay parties anxious to gaze at their sovereign 
(then Prince Regent) and his royal relatives (particularly the Princess Char¬ 
lotte) ; and the Lord Mayor’s barge being also stationed near, gave to the 
whole scene animation and hilarity, not less than magnificence and splendour. 
It was a renewal of the former glories of Richmond, in a scene of durable 
grandeur such as they never witnessed; for, however, the antiquarian may 
regret the destruction of the Palace and the obliteration of those walls, within 
which the hands of the priests were lifted up in prayer both day and night, 
in atonement for usurpation and murder, he will not deny that the proofs of 
wealth, talents, freedom, and happiness, now exhibited in this delightful spot, 
are infinitely more estimable and more worthy admiration. 

Beyond this house rises a large brick mansion, much more finely situated 
as being more commanding and extensive in the views it affords, but in itself 
plain and devoid of all architectural pretension. It was built by a brewer 
of the name of Collins, and affords proof of the power given by commercial 
pursuits to raise the industrious and enterprising. The gardens of this 
house extend to the river, and are entered through a subterraneous path, 
cut under the road which passes from Richmond to Petersham. It has 
had the singular honour of being inhabited successively by the Marquis of 
Stafford, Marquis Wellesley, and the Marquis of Lansdowne, who resides 
there at the present period. 

Beyond, or rather below, this site is the Gothic House inhabited (during 
her residence in England) by the celebrated Madame de Stael Holstein, and 
now by Miss Budd. It offers an agreeable variety to the eye, and is a 
delightful residence. A row of pleasant houses called Belle-vue, follow, 
the gardens of which come down to the river side, from which however 
they are divided by a wall, and a towing path used by the bargemen, until 
we reach the seat of the Duke of Buccleuch where the path ceases, and the 
green lawn is literally laved by the silver stream which here winds gently 
round, as if embracing a scene of more transcendent beauty than it had 
visited before. 

Th is residence consists of two dwellings connected by a subterraneous 
road, the lower part being in winter subject to suffering from floods. The 


RICHMOND HILL. 


23 


gardens and shrubbery extend to the summit of the Hill, and are laid out 
in that style of simple elegance suited to the genius of the place, where 
nature herself is clothed superbly and finished in her style of ornament. 
The house is at present inhabited by the young Duke of Buccleuch, who 
succeeded to his grandmother in 1827. This venerable lady died at a 
very advanced age, but enjoyed health and activity almost to the last; 
and employed her powers so extensively for the benefit of every class of 
her fellow creatures, that perhaps not one name on record of the great, 
the wealthy, and the benevolent, could be recalled, to equal hers in 
deeds of charity to the poor, munificence to the deserving, affability and 
kindness to all. She was indeed the mother of the land—the fountain to 
which every mourner looked for refreshment; and the tears still flow not 
only in the cottages of the poor, but the reputable dwellings of substantial 
tradesmen, for the loss of her who was to them in the hour of sorrow and 
adversity a sure though silent benefactress—a ministering angel. 

This mansion, and most of those we have mentioned, are entered from the 
lower road, along which the village of Richmond extends, consisting of many 
good dwellings, and several of considerable consequence now occupied as 
boarding schools. In the view from the bridge these buildings are seen 
imperfectly, but agreeably; nearly hidden by masses of rich foliage, rising 
above each other on the gentle slope of the Hill, sometimes boldly and 
abruptly, at others, by almost imperceptible gradation, while the lower and 
less sightly buildings are completely hidden. From the middle of the bridge 
we have this rich and peerless Hill to the left, vindicating its claim to its 
ancient name of Schene or splendour by its white villas, glittering amid 
flowery gardens, tall elms, and willows of unequal magnitude and grace on 
the one hand; while on the other, our attention is claimed by the level 
lawns of Twickenham meadows, not less enriched by trees of most mag¬ 
nificent growth, spreading parklike before an extensive mansion built in the 
beginning of the seventeenth century, and long held to be classic ground 
by all who venerate virtue, and admire learning and genius. 

Beneath our feet, and far as the eye can now reach, the river rolls placidly 
in one broad, wide sheet, after taking one turn and forming an estuary 
which encloses a long unornamented ait, or island, just above the Duke of 
Buccleuch’s mansion. There is a character of beauty and peace, of sylvan 
splendour, substantial property, aristocratic wealth, and general comfort in 
this view peculiar to itself, for not a single object interferes to remind us of 




24 


RICHMOND IIILL. 


a painful inequality in the condition of man. There is no contrasted palace 
and cottage within our ken; the luxuries of the great and the privations of the 
low (if they exist in this vicinity), are alike inobtrusive, and involved beneath 
the broad shadows of those groves where imagination loves to picture forms of 
innocence and happiness alone. Rank is not isolated here, nor knowledge 
immured, and although every dwelling possesses the power and pleasure of 
retirement, all are so nearly allied to each other, in a close circle of neighbour¬ 
hood, that the man most distinguished by birth and honours, most remarkable 
for the gifts of nature, or the attainments of science, must mingle with the 
“ tide of human life,” and in a certain degree live with his brethren. 

From the right hand side of the bridge we have a beautiful but very 
different view. An air of bustle and animation pervades the scene, numerous 
boats are below us—men and boys are busy in occupations connected with 
them. The river is varied by small well wooded islands, and in the distance 
a greater number of vessels are seen on its surface; and rural elegance and 
serenity, to a certain degree, are exchanged for bustle and gaiety. On the 
Twickenham side the same placid character is indeed still exhibited, though 
the late built houses somewhat injure it. The noble mansion of the Earl 
of Cassilis, the present owner of Twickenham Park, closes the view on the 
left and appears like the castle of an ancient baron, the feudal lord of the 
surrounding dwellings. 

The houses on the Richmond side of the Hill, near this part of the bridge, 
are for the most part handsome structures with sloping gardens, one of them 
is the principal inn, and well calculated for the entertainment of large parties. 
Below it, appear those houses already mentioned as standing on the site of 
the old Palace, and the whole bank of the river from hence to Kew has 
the convenience of a noble gravel walk, shaded by numerous trees, and 
commanding on either hand beautiful though confined prospects of the 
parks and the river from Richmond to Isleworth and Sion. 

The grounds of Twickenham Park and meadows are subject in some 
seasons to being overflowed for short periods, from which circumstance 
they perhaps owe the exquisite hues of a grass that is unrivalled in colour 
and texture, and which unquestionably gives to this scenery much of an 
undefinable charm of which all are sensible, though few are aware from 
whence it proceeds. In the beginning of October, when the trees are 
changing, the skies serene, the river clear, and the grass renewed, these 
scenes are decidedly most beautiful. 



RICHMOND HILL. 


25 


Leaving the bridge, to which the ground gently slopes, we turn to the 
right and begin to ascend the celebrated Hill. To the left lies a portion of 
the town designated the Vineyards, and most probably devoted in former 
times to raising wines for the use of the Convents. It is uncertain at what 
period the cultivation of the grape as an article of home consumption ceased, 
but we cannot doubt the fact, of wine being made in England, if it were only 
from the circumstance of so many places retaining the name of vineyards 
in populous towns or hamlets. It is indeed certain from parish records, 
that so far north as Bolton Priory, on the Wharfe in Yorkshire, the monks 
reared vines to advantage, and good grapes for the table are produced 
there now on the walls of the vicarage; we may therefore conclude that 
in Richmond, where the grounds are favourably situated, they would be 
cultivated with success. 

After passing a long straggling street, the road is shut in on either hand 
by high stone walls, enclosing the gardens of those villas we have already 
specified, and others finely situated but less remarkable. The ascent is 
gradual for about a quarter of a mile, during which a large house built 
with turrets and Gothic windows, the residence of Mrs. Ellermer, and the 
alms houses of Bishop Duppa alone vary the scene, until we arrive at a 
beautiful open terrace formed on the brow of the Hill, planted with trees 
and accommodated with seats, from whence we may indeed exclaim— 


“ Heavens! what a goodly prospect smiles around.” 


The view is indeed extensive, and opposed to the eye with panoramic 
effect, but its peculiar excellence is rather the exquisite beauty and happy 
disposition of the parts than the extent, although the heights of Windsor 
and St. Anns Hill are included in the circle. Green parks and meadows, 
towering groves, splendid mansions, cheerful cottages, green hedge-rows, 
o-iant oaks and elms, far as the eye can discriminate, offer themselves to 
observation under the most picturesque effects — line beyond line, we still 
perceive deep masses of wood, bright hillocks on which the sunbeam 
flashes, white buildings reflecting his rays in shadowy places, where fancy 
alone can penetrate, till all melts away in softened vapour, save where the 
bold towers of Windsor imprint unyielding lineaments on the dim horizon. 

Amongst these sylvan scenes, the Thames pours his broad stream in 

E 



26 


RICHMOND HILL. 

a manner suited to the peaceful landscape he adorns and fertilizes, and the 
poet's description of this river, as being 

“ Strong without rage, without o’erflowing, full,” 

cannot be better exemplified than in the general appearance of the Thames 
at Richmond. On the opposite shore, Marble Hill and Mr. Brent's beau¬ 
tiful Cottage, Ragland Castle, the cheerful looking seat of Sir George 
Pococke, a beautiful clump of singularly elegant aspens in his grounds, 
the ancient church of Twickenham, and many of its finest villas, by turns 
arrest the eye as they adorn the banks of the Thames thence to Teddington. 
To the left lie the woods of Petersham, the park of Ham House, enriched 
by stately avenues, and below are meadows of the richest verdure, in which 
groups of fine cattle enjoy whatever animal life can require to perfect its 
happiness; and many a time does the swiftly gliding pleasure boat rest on 
its oars, as if to gaze on the beauty and fertility of a scene so gorgeous, 
yet so placid, so endowed by nature, so improved by art. 



THE STAR AMD GARTER TAVERN. 


Many houses enjoy this magnificent prospect, so far as it is not screened 
from their view by the limes and elms which are planted before them. 
Beyond the parade it is beheld without an intervening shade by several, 
but the Star and Garter Tavern, as being higher than any other, both as to 
situation and erection, is generally considered to afford the most extensive 
view. Those celebrated painters, Reynolds and Gainsborough, had houses 




























































RICHMOND HILL. 


‘27 


upon Richmond Hill, of which the former painted an upright picture, but 
from the pencil of the latter we have unfortunately no view, although it 
is probable that many, of his best sketches were from spots in its immediate 
vicinity. 

At the highest point of the Hill, Richmond Park, formerly called the 
New or Great Park, is entered by a large handsome iron gateway. “ It 
was made by King Charles I. who was extremely partial to the sports of 
the field, and was very desirous of having a large Park well supplied 
with red and fallow deer, in the neighbourhood of his two Palaces, 
Richmond and Hampton Court. Within the space which was marked 
out for that purpose, the king had wastes and woods of his own, but as 
some parishes had commons and many private persons had houses and 
lands intermingled, he found it a work of great difficulty; for though he 
offered more than the value of the several estates, and many of the owners 
were willing to part with their lands to oblige his majesty, yet others 
could not be prevailed on to alienate their property upon any terms. 
The king being very urgent, it made a great clamour, and the outcry 
was, 4 that he was about to take away his subjects’ estates at his own 
pleasure.’ Under these circumstances Bishop Laud and Lord Cottington, 
who were assailed from day to day with solicitations against it from all 
quarters, advised his majesty to desist from a measure which threatened 
to be both so unpopular and so expensive, as it was intended to surround 
the Park with a brick wall. The king, however, was not to be persuaded, 
having already ordered the bricks to be burnt and having begun the wall 
upon his own estate.*’ 

Such is the account given by Lord Clarendon of the enclosure of this 
Park, which extends into four of the neighbouring parishes, and contains 
two thousand two hundred and fifty three acres. The ground undulates 
beautifully in hill and dale throughout, and is enriched with numerous 
plantations, fine oaks and elms, and presents a beautiful diversity of views. 
London, crowned by the bold cupola of St. Paul’s, Harrow, Hampstead, 
and Highgate, are seen hence to great advantage. The parts adjacent to 
Roehampton and Wimbleton, show there, as magnificently adorned by 
splendid seats and beautiful pleasure grounds; whilst that part of the Park 
skirting Ham Common, offers sequestered glades in which the very genius 
of solitude appears to reside; and although within a little distance “ of 


28 


RICHMOND IIILL. 

the busy haunts of men/* the studious rambler may walk for hours through 
coppice and dell, over green hillocks and near murmuring rills, without 
meeting any living thing, save the birds that solace him with song, or a 
stray fawn languishing for companions, 


# “ Under the shade of melancholy boughs.” 

“ In 1649 the House of Commons voted that the New Park at 
Richmond should be given to the city of London, but on the Restoration 
it was given again to the king, who appointed Sir Daniel Harvey, ranger. 
Queen Anne granted the rangership for three lives, to the Earl of Rochester. 
George I. gave it to Lord Walpole, whose father built the Great Lodge, 
the Stone Lodge being already built by George I. which was given, 
together with sixty acres of land, by George III. to Lord Sidmouth. 

After the death of Lord Walpole, who was second Earl of Orford, the 
Princess Amelia (aunt to King George III.) was appointed ranger, and 
having unfortunately been induced to close a footpath through the Park, 
a lawsuit was commenced, and the right of the path established at the 
Kingston assizes. Mr. Lewis, a brewer at Richmond, by his exertions 
brought this affair to a fortunate issue for the inhabitants of the place, who 
testified their gratitude by entering into a subscription for his support 
after he became unfortunate in business. 

The Princess Amelia resigned the rangership after this decision, and 
it was not held by any of the royal family until within a few years, when 
it was given to the Princess Elizabeth, sister of his present majesty. 

“In the early part of the present century, there was a place of enter¬ 
tainment much frequented, called Richmond Wells; at that time there 
were balls every Monday and Thursday during the season,” to these balls 
were added a species of theatrical entertainment, conducted by Colley Cibber, 
together with raffles, and other watering-place amusements. The Wells 
were said to be aperient, but they fell into disuse about the middle of the 
last century. The house which stands on the site of the one where these 
amusements were carried on, is that lately mentioned as being inhabited by 
the Countess of Cardigan, and beautifully situated on the side of the Hill, 
with the advantage of gardens well calculated for the purposes of public 
entertainment. 


RICHMOND HILL. 


29 


We are told that, to avoid the penalties of the act of parliament against 
• unlicensed comedians, Theophilus Cibber advertised his theatre as a 
Cephalic Snuff Warehouse. This place had been formerly a hovel for 
asses, and was opened by Penkethman, who spoke a humourous prologue on 
the occasion. Since then a theatre was built at the north-west corner of 
the Green, which obtained the sanction of regal authority, and is frequently 
visited by performers of high name from London, during the summer 
season. Occasionally bands of music, paid for by subscription, perform 
alternately on the Hill, or Cholmondeley Walk, which is the name of the 
terrace below the bridge, near the site of the former Palace. 

Although the view from Richmond Hill may be considered the most 
magnificent and complete that can be offered to the contemplation of the 
visitor; yet in all the environs of this charming place he will find objects of 
the most beautiful and varied character. We have already said how great 
a variety of fine scenery is to be found in the Great Park, and if leaving 
this we turn to the right, down the road which leads to Petersham (in the 
old oaks and young brushwood which overshadow the path in many places, 



SCENE IN PETERSHAM WOOD. 


and in others afford beautiful peeps towards the river), we shall find much 
to delight us of an extremely distinct character, to the extensive and gorgeous 
display we have so lately enjoyed. All here is solitary, not melancholy, 
the very scene where the lover or the poet would desire to court the smiles 




30 


RICHMOND MILL. 


of that real, or ideal, fair one necessary to the happiness of one, and the 
fame of the other; and hew, that commanding genius who has so blended 
imagination with truth, as to give power to the first and beauty to the 
last, has bestowed new interest by rendering it the scene of Jeany Dean’s 
interview with Queen Caroline. 

To the left, a high brick wall encloses the gardens of a mansion called 
Petersham Lodge, and which lying in a sloping direction, would unques¬ 
tionably be laid out in the terraces described, at a time when it was the 
fashion so to dispose of all that admitted it. A private door in any part 
of this road would easily admit the duke and his humble protegee into the 
presence of royalty by this medium, and as the scenery tallies in every 
point with that described (which is not the case with any other house or 
place in the neighbourhood), we can have no doubt but it was that intended 
by Sir Walter Scott, and as it was probably at that time in possession of the 
crown (having been purchased by King Charles I. and doubtless resumed 
by Charles II.) no place could have been fixed upon as more probable and 
suitable. 

The house in question is now we believe in possession of the Earl of 
Huntingtower*. It had the misfortune to be burnt by accident in 1721, 
at a time when it was inhabited by the Earl of Rochester, and the Earl 
and Countess of Essex were staying there, but providentially no lives were 
lostf. It was rebuilt by William, Earl of Harrington, after a design of 
the celebrated Earl of Burlington. The Duke of Clarence purchased it of 
Lord Camelford in 1790, and resided there several years. 

Within a little distance, at Sadbrooke, the Duke of Argyle’s daughter, 
Lady Greenwich, lived; and here that great statesman and amiable man 
expired. He was bom at Ham House, towards which we are now travelling, 
and may therefore be well supposed to have an intimate acquaintance with 
every part of a neighbourhood to which his bravery, talents, and virtues, 
gave honour far beyond his rank. 

The grounds of Petersham are every where beautiful, though flat—the 

* This being the second title of the Earls of Dysart, it is probable that the house 
was even then some way connected with the Duke of Argyle's family. 

f A mistake, two women were killed in consequence of jumping from the attics. 



RICHMOND HILL. 


31 


church is an ancient brick structure in form of a cross. There are several 
excellent houses within a little distance of it, and an air of extraordinary 
neatness and simplicity in the more humble dwellings which constitute the 
village, near to which is a beautiful plantation of walnut trees, that forms 
in autumn a glowing variety in the colouring of the foliage, and attracts 
the eye from every part of the neighbourhood. 

Within a little distance, still rambling through green meadows, pleasant 
lanes, or a road fringed by rich hedges and shaded by lofty trees, we arrive 
at Ham Manor House, which, with its surrounding avenues and gardens, 
are among the finest features of this fine country. 

The manor of Ham was granted by Henry II. to Maurice de Owen, 
a powerful baron, from whom it passed to the Burnels, Handelows, and 
Lovels; by the attainder of Francis, Lord Lovel, it was forfeited to the 
crown, and hence was given to Anne of Cleves, Henry Prince of Wales, 
and Charles I. at the time when he was Prince of Wales. In 1672 
Charles II. granted the manor of Ham, in fee, to the Duke and Duchess 
of Lauderdale, and to the heirs of the duchess by her first husband, 
Sir Lionel Tollemache and his son succeeded. The property is now in 
possession of the female branch of this family, created Countess of Dysart, 
whose son, Lord Huntingtower, inhabits the Lodge at Petersham. 

The Manor House of Ham was built in 1610, by Sir Thomas Vavasour, 
but it underwent considerable alteration and improvement by the Duke and 
Duchess of Lauderdale, in the reign of Charles II. who was frequently their 
guest, and it was furnished by them in the most splendid and costly manner. 
As it remains unchanged in every respect since that time, and has been 
preserved with the greatest care, it offers a curious and magnificent specimen 
of the fashions of those times, to the few persons who are so fortunate as 
to obtain the power of surveying it. The gardens continue to be laid out 
also in precisely the former style, and immensely high and massy walls 
o-uard flowery parterres in long unbroken lines, whilst avenues of stately 
trees cast a deep, but not therefore melancholy shade over all the environs. 
In summer this shade is refreshing, and in winter, notwithstanding the loss 
of the foliage, it imparts a sense of shelter extremely grateful, so that 
notwithstanding an air of formality may be said to prevail, it is one of a 
grand and pleasing character. There is nothing here repellant to our ideas 


32 


RICHMOND HILL. 


of the gaiety and fascination which hung like a spell round the movements 
of that laughter-loving monarch 

“ Who never said a foolish thing. 

Nor ever did a wise one.” 


Whilst at the same time there is an appearance of grandeur beseeming 
the polished nobleman, who has emerged from the barbarous magnificence 
of his baronial castle, though he has not reached the acme of present 
elegance. The luxury of ease is rarely compatible with the display of 
laboured pomp, and exuberant ornament. 

The ceilings of this house were painted by Verrio—the furniture is of 
the richest damask and velvet—the gilding is abundant, and the brushes 
and bellows in several apartments are of solid silver, or fillagree silver. 
The centre of the house consists of a large hall surrounded with an open 
gallery, the staircase to which is of walnut tree, decorated with military 
trophies. On the west side is a gallery ninety-two feet long, hung with 
portraits by Cornelius Janson, Sir Peter Lely, and Haskins. The works 
of Vandervelde and Wouvermans are also among the happiest decorations 
of Ham House; but a whole length likeness of the late Countess of Dysart, 
who was a beautiful and excellent woman, by our own countryman Sir 
Joshua Reynolds, must be gazed upon by every one with more admiration 
than any other picture. 

In one part of the house we are shown a boudoir, where Charles II. 
delighted to sit with the Duke of Lauderdale tete-a-tete , or at times with 
another friend. The royal chair and two others still stand round a small 
table, on which wine and fruit were wont to be placed. Near the bed¬ 
chamber of the duchess there is a closet which was also the favourite 
retreat of her grace in advanced life. The great chair where she sat and 
read has a desk fixed to it, and her cane, with an ivory handle, still hangs 
upon the arm. These circumstances, together with the general air of the 
house, enables us in fancy to see the venerable duchess in the later stages 
of existence, when the few comforts she could enjoy were comprised within 
that narrow room, and the voice of mirth, the revels of royalty, had become 
silent in that spacious dwelling. 



RICHMOND TULL. 


33 


When William III. arrived in England, James II. was commanded to 
retire to this house; but he stayed here only a short time, conceiving it too 
near London for his safety after his abdication, and fled from hence to 
France, where his queen and her son had already arrived. 

In this hamlet the Duke of Queensberry # had a seat, where the poet 
Gay frequently resided during the latter part of his life, and died there in 
1732. The duchess survived both: she was a beautiful and clever woman, 
but of high spirit and somewhat singular manners. 

Ham Common is once a year a gay scene, as a fair is held there merely 
for the purposes of sport, and much frequented not only by the neighbouring 
rustics but those of higher rank, whose carriages are frequently seen waiting 
in the vicinity whilst the owners amuse themselves with the humours of 
the place. It is too great a distance from the metropolis to become liable 
to those disorders which have rendered meetings of this kind such general 
subjects of complaint, and we therefore hope it will not be included in those 
plans of reform which are wisely adopted under other circumstances. The 
loud laugh of sportive childhood, the warm meetings of humble but hearty 
friends, the relaxation from toil, which imparts a pleasure the labourer 
alone can know, and compresses into a few smiling hours all the luxuries 
poverty can hope to enjoy, are circumstances so pleasant to witness or 
contemplate, that few persons would desire to check the harmless hilarity 
of such a spectacle, more especially when it is beheld under the beams of 
a summer sky, and surrounded by the beauties of a country so fair as this. 

Leaving Ham Common for the banks of the Thames, towards which 
we again desire to conduct our readers, we enter a beautiful green avenue 
leading directly to Ham House, and view that mansion under its happiest 
appearance. At the bottom of the avenue we find it guarded by a pair of 
most magnificent iron gates enclosing a garden fenced with palisadoes, the 
road we are to pursue branching to the right and skirting the park, which 
lies by the water side, and may be crossed by foot passengers under the 
shade of majestic elms. 

In casting “ a last lingering look" at this stately dwelling, we are 
tempted to relate a circumstance calculated to render its memory as much 
endeared to the heart of sensibility, as its more evident pretensions offer to 


* “ There worthy Queensberry still laments his Gay.” 


Pope. 


34 


RICHMOND HILL. 


the curious and tasteful. During the life of the late countess, the earl, her 
husband, was employed in building a dairy for her, which in the pride of 
affection he sought to render as beautiful and complete as possible. For 
this purpose he engaged the best sculptors of the day to provide pastoral 
ornaments; and Barrett, the celebrated landscape painter, was employed 
to paint the walls. Whilst this occupation was pressing forward with the 
impatience of a lover anxious to please the object of his fond solicitude; 
the ill fated husband had the misfortune to lose his wife and his expected 
heir—to fall at once from the summit of felicity into a depth of sorrow felt 
but the more acutely, because it stood alone. 

The first order given by the earl was to close instantly and for ever, 
that place where his poor heart might have been said to have expended its 
last hour of love, its last ray of connubial felicity. There to this hour lie the 
works and implements of the artists, and the place itself is so grown over 
by creeping plants, that neither door nor windows can be discerned without 
searching for them. Neither have been opened since. It is a tomb, unlike 
to that which enshrined the fair form of her whom it commemorates, since 
it boasts no resurrection, but resembles the perished powers of its master’s 
bosom, who survived his lady many years, but formed no second marriage, 
and seldom mingled with society. 

A walk of a quarter of a mile now brings us to the banks of the river 
Thames, opposite to Eel Pie Island, and convenient as the ferry to Twicken¬ 
ham and the island is established here. We must not however leave this side 
of the water without informing the reader that near the other extremity of 
the Countess of Dysart’s park is a pretty fishing house, and that in a 
meadow below its site some of the most beautiful views in this neighbour- 

O 

hood are obtained. The path thither is perfectly straight and may be 
taken either within the boundaries of the park, or upon the towing path, 
which is less agreeable to the pedestrian as being covered with pebbles. 
On the opposite side of the river a beautiful green terrace walk affords not 
only a great accommodation to the neighbourhood, but offers a pleasing 
object to the eye, which is successively attracted by the fine mansions of 
Miss Byng, Sir George Pococke, Ptagland Castle, Marble Hall, and Marble 
Hill Cottage. 

The most interesting view is not however found until the river makes 
the turn we have already noticed, when the whole panorama assumes a 


RICHMOND HILL. 


35 


character of complete beauty undiminished by intervening circumstance, 
and perhaps unequalled in pastoral forms. The wealth of nature and art— 
the gifts of taste, and the endearment of simplicity mingle in their com¬ 
binations, and arrest the eye and the heart as by the spell of the magician 
or the lyre of the poet. 

On the right are the grounds of the Duke of Buccleuch and the 
picturesque dwelling of the last Duchess of Devonshire; to the left, the 
seat of the late Mr. Hunter, half hidden yet not injured by lofty trees, 
which are planted from thence to the water’s edge, and cast their protecting 
boughs over the fishing house. Before us the river spreads widely, and 
beyond it Twickenham Meadows break on the eye in all the luxuriance of 
beauty, enlivened by the new built mansion of Archdeacon Cambridge: 
which enjoys unquestionably the finest site on the river, being planted amidst 
a group of the most majestic elms on a gentle swell of greensward, tending 
equally to secure a delightful prospect, and presenting in itself a graceful 
and attractive object, to which in time we shall return. 

Retracing our steps we arrive at the ferry to Twickenham, admiring 
a group of Arbile poplars which form from this side of the river every 
where a striking object. They grow in the grounds of Sir George Pococke, 
and some of them are so near the river, that during the floods which took 
place a few years ago, some were undermined and fell, and others so far 
injured as to require the aids of propping, which was done very judiciously. 
The gracefulness of their forms, their light waving foliage, lofty growth, 
and happy situation on a little promontory which commands the river 
either way, constitute there a conspicuous feature in the landscape, and the 
painter of ideal subjects has frequently transplanted them to his canvass, 
to shade the ruins of a Grecian temple, or smile beneath the beams of an 
Italian sky. 

Many light pleasure boats are frequently seen on this part of the river 
filled with visitants to the island, where a house of entertainment, long 
celebrated for the article which conferred its name, is constantly open. 
The whole space is formed into gardens well calculated for the temporary 
accommodation of numerous visitants and affording pleasing views of the 
river, the distant Hill of Richmond on the one side, and the villas of 
Twickenham on the other. Of these the principal object of inquiry 
is after Pope’s residence, towards the site of which the most unlettered 


3 G 


RICHMOND HILL. 


citizen turns his eye with veneration, as to the relic of one who was an 
honour to his country, and whose habits and memoirs he is anxious to 
retrace. Perhaps this feeling exists the stronger, because there are yet 
some recollections and anecdotes of the poet, afloat amongst the people 
of Twickenham; the office of his waterman being held successively by a 
father and son named Red knap, and the son of the latter still follows the 
same occupation, and remembers the stories of his father in early life 
respecting Pope, who was accustomed to have his voyages to London 
rendered more safe and agreeable to one so delicate in health, by sitting 
in a sedan chair the whole way. 

The river here is much impeded by the superabundant growth of 
water-lilies and other aquatic plants. There is a small island lower down 
covered with wood and very beautiful; within a few years it boasted one 
of those magnificent weeping willows which, in this neighbourhood, every 
where decorate the banks of the Thames, but the same floods which injured 
the group of trees, as already mentioned, laid this prostrate. This island is 
the resort of some of those beautiful swans for which the river has so 
long been celebrated; a noble pair may frequently be seen near this spot 
breasting the water proudly, followed by a train of cygnets, which they 
lead to a given distance. We have seldom seen them far from their island 
home. Their appearance on the bright river adds greatly to the all per¬ 
vading sense of beauty which affects us in this neighbourhood, for the 
graceful and majestic grandeur of their forms, the spotless delicacy of their 
plumage, and the self-possession and conscious superiority, displayed in 
their progress on the water, is in accordance with the rank and royalty, 
the elegance and splendour, which mingle here even with objects of the 
most artless and pastoral character. 

Beyond the Eel Pie Island is a part of the river long held in high 
regard by fishermen, but at this time rendered doubly valuable as being 
the only place where their sport can be pursued to advantage. We 
understand that the introduction of the steam boat has completely driven 
the silent inhabitants of the river from their usual haunts—before that time 
roach, dace, and barbel, were abundant. That the salmon fisheries in the 
Thames were at one time very productive we cannot doubt, because they 
formed (as is proved by various records) valuable gifts to the monasteries 
at Mortlake, Sheen, and elsewhere; but of late years very few have been 


RICHMOND HILL. 


37 


taken. W e believe they were not found higher than Isleworth, were always 
difficult to catch, but being of superior flavour never failed to secure an 
exorbitant price. Trout is sometimes taken above Twickenham of a very 
large size and excellent quality, but they are extremely scarce and may at 
this time be said to have nearly disappeared. The real lover of angling 
will indeed have nothing to regret, in the present state of things, but the 
loss of the barbel, which being a powerful fish, gave him the opportunity 
of exerting his skill to bring his prey to land. Being also as food of little 
value it it is not cooked within the hour after killing (in which case it is 
delicious) successful fishers generally gave their prize to the first poor people 
who came in their way, so that a twofold loss is experienced. Patient punt 
fishers may find their amusement the same as before in general, for those 
who never gained can hardly be said to have lost any thing by the changes 
and improvements in question. 

The views above the Eel Pie Island from the water are exceedingly 
beautiful, and still present that exquisite mingling of the rustic and the 
elegant, the polish of high life with the simplicity of the rural, which can 
only be found in very peculiar situations. The village of Teddington, about 
a mile beyond, is very lovely, and the banks of the Thames continue to 
offer objects of interest and magnificence, the Royal Palace of Hampton 
and the flowery avenues of Bushy Park, affording objects well worthy the 
pencil of the artist, and the pen of the annalist, but these being beyond 
our present range, we can only invite the reader to cross the ferry and 
enter the ancient village of Twickenham. 


38 


TWICKENHAM. 


Oh ! pleasant land of Idlesse ! 

Jollity bides not 'neath thy trees. 

But thought, that roams from folly tree 
Through the pure world of poetry, 

Puts on her strength in scenes like these. 

Mary Howitt. 


Although in a different county, and divided from Richmond by the 
Thames, Twickenham in early history, and still more by its beauty, is 
closely associated with it, especially in the minds of all their visitants. 
Though distinct in their features (for Twickenham boasts only of level 
plains) they have some points of resemblance as well as union ; the same 
silver stream constitutes the finest feature in each—the same noble growth 
of wood adorns the banks, which are alike embellished by splendid villas 
and gay gardens. Though Twickenham never possessed a palace, yet 
many royal personages have resided there, and many others endowed by 
nature, not less than these by rank, have given a never-dying celebrity to 
this village. It will never be forgotten that 

“-the Muses haunt 

In Twickenham's bowers,"- 

so long as the names of Pope, Gay, Swift, and Cambridge, continue to 
delight us. 

Twickenham is thought by Norden to owe its name to the river, being 
by reason of islands divided into two streams, and originally spelt Twynam, 







TWICKENHAM. 


39 


but in many records of old writings it is spelt Twitham, or Twiccanharn. 
It is mentioned as a hamlet depending on Isleword (Gistelworde) in 1390, 
but is referred to at a much earlier period, being amongst other property 
restored to the monks of Christ Church in Canterbury in 941. 

We find, however, that in 948 the said monks had been again deprived 
of it, for King Eldred in that year gave it to them again, with the following 
bitter anathema on those who should a third time venture to infringe it, 
“ whatever be their sex, order, or rank, may their memory be blotted out 
of the Book of Life, may their strength continually waste away, and be 
there no restorative to repair it.” The gift thus enforced was originally 
given in 791 by Offa King of the Mercia, to Athelard Archbishop of 
Canterbury. 

In the reign of Henry VIII. this manor, like that of other lands appro¬ 
priated formerly to the church, fell into the power of the king, and was 
annexed by him to the manor of Hampton Court. It remained in the 
immediate occupation of the crown till the reign of Charles I., by whom 
it was settled with other estates as a jointure on his queen, Henrietta Maria. 
It was sold by the parliament, but after the Restoration the queen mother 
resumed possession of her jointure, and held it till her death. It was 
afterwards settled for life on Catherine, consort of Charles II. 

The Manor House stands opposite the church and was inhabited till 
within a few years by the Rev. Mr. Fletcher. It is said to have been 
dwelt in by the queens of Henry VIII., and in particular, that Catherine 
of Arragon resided here during the time when her suit was pending. The 
survey taken of this house in 1650, describes “ two round rooms in a 
brick turret,” which still remain; and mentions “ a fair hall wainscotted, 
in which was a screen of excellent workmanship.” Previous to the residence 
of the late worthy occupant, Scott and Marlow, artists of known talents, 
held it successively. 

The most remarkable and desirable part of the manor of Twickenham 
in 1567, was leased to Sir Thomas Newenham, and afterwards granted to 
Andrew Pitcairne, groom of the bed-chamber, whose widow held it at the 
time of the parliamentary survey. It is there described “ as a pleasant and 
delightful tenement, about twenty poles from the river, built partly with brick 
and partly with timber, and Flemish wall, with comely chambers ; the gardens, 
not only rare for pleasure but exceedingly profitable, being planted with 


40 


TWICKENHAM. 


cabbages, turnips, carrots, and many other such like creatures ; there were 
sixteen acres of cherry gardens. Such is the description of its fruitfulness 
given then ; and in 1720 , Macky, in his tour through England, says that 
“ Secretary Johnston (who at that time resided there) had in his gardens 
the best collection of fruit of most gentlemen in England; that he had 
slopes for his vines from which he made some hogsheads of wine in a year, 
and that Dr. Bradley ranked him, in his treatise on gardening, amongst the 
first gardeners in the kingdom.” 

This gentleman improved the house considerably, and built an octagon 
room for the reception of Queen Caroline, consort of George II., who, 

during her residence at Hampton Court, was fond of coming down the 

river early in the morning to visit Lady Catherine his wife, and breakfast 
in his beautiful gardens. The opening of this newly erected room was 

celebrated by a grand fete held in the gardens, as well as the room and 

gallery which connects it with the house, and which comprised the first 
company of high rank in this country. 

On the death of Mr. Johnstone the house was sold, and in the course 
of a few years became the property of Sir George Pococke, K. B. who 
married Miss Pitt, the heiress of the last purchaser. During his residence, 
the gardens which had been laid out in long lines of walls according to the 
fashion of the day, and with a view to cultivating vines in particular, were 
modernised and rendered beautiful as pleasure grounds; and since then 
they have been still farther improved by his son, Sir George Pococke, Bart, 
who has entirely divested them of all their previous formality, and rendered 
the grounds not less beautiful than the situation of his mansion. 

For about two years this house was occupied by the Duke of Orleans, 
at this time King of France, who had previously resided in this neighbour¬ 
hood at a time when there appeared little probability that he should be 
restored to his paternal rights. Alike in prosperity and adversity, this 
excellent prince might be said to win in this neighbourhood 

“ Golden opinions from all ranks of men.” 

Queen Anne also once lived in this house for a month, being accom¬ 
modated with it, for the health of her son, by the late Lady Pococke’s 
mother. The young Duke of Gloucester, who died at eleven years of age, 


TWICKENHAM. 


41 


had a corps of boys whom he was fond of teaching the manual exercise, 
and who followed him hither, and went through their usual duties upon 
the neighbouring island. 

Another portion of the manor of Twickenham, called “ Yorke’s Farm," 
was demised in 15G6 to John Jermyn and James Bafers, but changed its 
owners repeatedly betwixt that time and 1661, when it became the property 
of Lord Chancellor Clarendon, who made York House his summer residence 
for several years. In consequence of his daughter’s marriage with the 
Duke of York, afterwards James II., Queen Anne was born in this house, 
and much of their time, during infancy, was passed here, both by her and 
Queen Mary. It was the property and many years the residence of the 
Count Strauemburgh, minister plenipotentiary from the court of Vienna, 
after whose death it was inhabited by the Honourable Mrs. Darner, when 
she had resigned Strawberry Hill to Lord Waldegrave. This lady was 
remarkable for her skill as a sculptor, a study she pursued until far 
advanced in life, having died lately upwards of eighty. 

The house where Pope resided, and which is beautifully situated on 
a bend of the river, was purchased by that justly celebrated poet in the 
year 1715, with the money he had gained by the translation of the Iliad. 
He retired thither with both his parents, and his mother lived many years 
to prove how tenderly her highly-gifted son could 

“ Rock the cradle of declining age.” 


During his residence here, the mind of the poet was chiefly given to the 
improvement of this favoured spot, but having only a small space of ground 
to cultivate, he seems to have found his chief amusement in the construc¬ 
tion of a grotto, which he thus describes in a letter: 

“ I have put the last hand to my works of this kind, in happily finishing 
the subterranean way and grotto. I there found a spring of the clearest 
water, which falls in a perpetual rill that echoes through the cavern day 
and night. From the river Thames you see through my arch, up a walk 
of the wilderness to a kind of open temple wholly composed of shells in the 
rustic manner, and from that distance under the temple, you look down 
through a sloping arcade of trees and see the sails on the river passing 
suddenly, and vanishing as through a perspective glass. When you shut 

G 


/ 


42 


TWICKENHAM. 


the doors of this grotto it becomes on the instant, from a luminous room, a 
Camera Obscura, on the walls of which all the objects of the river, hills, 
woods, and boats, are forming a moving picture in their visible radiations, 
and when you have a mind to light it up, it affords you a very different scene. 
It is finished with shells interspersed with pieces of looking-glass in angular- 
forms, and in the ceiling is a star of the same material, at which, when 
a lamp (of an orbicular figure, of thin alabaster) is hung in the middle, a 
thousand pointed rays glitter, and are reflected over the place.” 

It could not be supposed that his muse would be silent on a subject 
which had been so long the object of his attention; accordingly, the two 
following inscriptions attest the talents of him who formed the grotto, and 
the pleasure he took in adding to its embellishments (lines which will pro¬ 
bably outlive even the durable materials of which it is composed)— 

Upon a stone lying near the spring is engraved, 


“ Nymph of the grot, these sacred springs I keep. 

And to the murmurs of these waters sleep. 

Ah! spare my slumbers, gently tread the cave. 

And drink in silence, or in silence lave.” 

INSCRIPTION FOR THE GROTTO. 

“ Thou who shalt stop where Thames’ translucent wave 
Shines a broad mirror through the shadowy cave. 

Where ling’ring drops, from min’ral roofs distil, 

And pointed crystals break the sparkling rill. 

Unpolish’d gems no ray on pride bestow. 

And latent metals innocently glow. 

Approach—great Nature studiously behold. 

And eye the mine without a wish for gold, 

Approach : hut awful I—lo ! the’ Egerian grot. 

Where nobly pensive, St. John sat and thought; 

Where British sighs from dying Wyndham stole. 

And the bright flame was shot through Marchmont’s soul. 
Let such, such only, tread the sacred floor, 

Who dare to love their country and be poor.” 


In the Earl of Waldegrave’s library there is a sketch made by Pope, 
who was exceedingly fond of painting (as may be seen by his lines to 
Jervis), which shows the church and part of the village of Twickenham, 
as seen from his grotto. At this villa he frequently received not only 


TWICKENHAM. 


43 


triends of high rank, but his literary contemporaries and beloved compa¬ 
nions, Swift and Gay; and one of Lord Bolingbroke's letters is addressed 
“ to the three Yahoos of Twickenham, Jonathan, Alexander, and John. 
From this triumvirate what flashes of wit and merriment would be elicited 
in the hour of gaiety? what sage reflections and generous sentiments be 
uttered in that of calm conversation and pensive rambling ? 

After Pope’s death, in 1744, the place was purchased by Sir William 
Stanhope, who added wings to the house, and extended the gardens by 
purchasing a piece of ground on the other side of a lane at the back of 
the house, to which we are conducted by a subterranean passage, in which 
is the following inscription : 

“ The humble roof, the garden’s scanty line, 

Ill suit the genius of the bard divine. 

But fancy now displays a fairer scope, 

And Stanhope’s plans unfold the soul of Pope.” 

This beautiful compliment to departed genius bespoke a kindred mind and 
congenial talents in him who dictated it, and whose care to preserve every 
memorial was imitated by his successor Lord Mendip (who married his 
daughter). His lordship was particularly anxious to preserve a fine willow 
planted by the poet’s own hands, and which perished in the year 1801, about 
twelve months before its venerable owner paid the debt of nature in his 
eighty-ninth year. The wood of this tree was disposed of to friends as 

precious relics, and we have seen a vase made from a part of the root, 

which was devoted to receiving the contributions of poets, by the owner, 
Dr. Philips. Among these the highest in poetic beauty and good feeling, 
was contributed by James Montgomery, Esq. and is published in the second 
volume of his works. 

In 1807 this villa and a house near it, once inhabited by Jervis the 
painter (the neighbour and instructor of Pope), were purchased by the 
Baroness Howe, who, finding that it could not by any improvements be 
rendered an eligible habitation for her large establishment, entirely removed 
both houses, and built a handsome mansion about a hundred yards distant 
from the site. The grotto still remains in much the same state it obtained 

from its constructor, but it is said that many of the spars and shells have 


44 


TWICKENHAM. 


been stolen by visitants, who held them as relics of the place. A willow- 
planted by Lord Mendip on the spot where the former grew, is fenced 
round as a preservative to it from similar pillage, and is now become a tree 
of some beauty and importance. The present house is a handsome structure, 
annexed to which is a noble conservatory; it is splendidly furnished, and 
being the frequent rendezvous of persons of high rank and distinguished 
talents, may be still considered as a privileged spot, consecrated to the 
enlightened and worthy, not less than the titled and wealthy. 

It was within a short distance of this place that the celebrated Lady 
Mary Wortley Montague once resided, in a house since occupied as a ladies' 
boarding school. She came to live here, about 1720, a few years after Pope, 
and we may thence conclude that here that quarrel between these witty 
persons took place which excited so much attention in their day, and which 
each have unfortunately perpetuated 

“ In deathless satire, and immortal verse.” 

In the same immediate neighbourhood stands a seat once the dwelling of 
that remarkable man the Duke of Wharton; and not far from thence is the 
house in which Sir John Hawkins lived many years. This gentleman is 
not only well known to the public as the author of a “ History of Music, " 
the “ Life of Dr. Johnson ” (whose intimate and early friend he w T as), 
u Walton's Angler,’' and other works, but as the father of a learned and 
highly talented family. His eldest son is known by his writings on 
architectural antiquities, his publication of Ignoramus, See .; and his daughter 
(still resident at Twickenham), by her admirable works of imagination, her 
classical acquirements, and her conversational talents, may be said “ to have 
surpassed her father’s fame.” 

But the most attractive house now in Twickenham is Strawberry Hill, 
on the right of the road to Teddington. It was originally a mere cottage, 
grew from that to be a lodging house, at which time Colley Cibber lived 
in it and wrote his comedy of “ The Refusal, or the Ladies’ Philosophy.” 
Afterwards attracted by its beauty of situation, Dr. Talbot, Bishop of 
Durham, lived in it eight years, and was succeeded by the Marquis of 
Carnarvon. A Mrs. Chevenix held it next, from whom the celebrated 


TWICKENHAM. 


45 


Horace Walpole (afterwards Lord Orford) bought the lease, and began to 
rebuild, alter, and extend it into its present form, his great object being to 
render every thing within and without perfectly in the Gothic style. 

We doubt not this gentleman was led to make this choice of residence, 
and subsequently seek to render it unique and attractive, not only in 
consequence of the beauty of the situation, but on account of the captivation 
offered by the society which surrounded him, which in the course of a few 
years was yet improved, as we find him in 1755 writing thus: — 

“ Nothing is equal to the glory of this village, Mrs. Pritchard has 
bought Ragmans Castle. We shall be as celebrated as Baiise, or Tivoli, 
and if we have not as sonorous names as they boast, we have very famous 
people—Clive and Pritchard, actresses; Scott and Hudson, painters; my 
Lady Suffolk, famous in her time; Mr. H. the impudent lawyer that Tom 
Hervey wrote against; Whitehead the poet; and Cambridge the every 
thing.” 

As it is not within the limits of a work like this to describe a place 
so curious, singular, and beautiful, as Strawberry Hill, which the noble 
owner has made the subject of a book, and that has moreover, been frequently 
described in the most circumstantial manner, we shall only mention the most 
remarkable of its many treasures and most striking features. Our intention 
in writing a description of places contiguous to the views, being evidently 
more connected with those objects presented to the general visitant of the 
country, than to the internal decorations of those elegant mansions, which 
are here so numerous. 

The great and little parlour, the waiting room, blue breakfasting room, 
the star chamber, gallery, circular drawing room, library, Holbein chamber, 
cabinet and chapel, constitute the house as shown to visitants. Each part 
is designed or rather accommodated to some design of known celebrity, 
and all are hung with pictures and enriched by busts, bronzes, painted glass, 
choice prints, &c. In the library is a clock of silver gilt, which was a 
present from King Henry VIII. to Anne Boleyne. In the cabinet many 
beautiful enamels and miniatures, a magnificent missal with miniatures by 
Raphael and his scholars, and a beautiful silver bell by Benvenuto Cellini, 
covered with masks, insects, &c. so exquisitely wrought as to bear the 
closest inspection with a glass. 



46 


TWICKENHAM. 


The gallery is fifty-six feet long, seventeen high, and thirteen wide— 
it is entered through a gloomy passage which renders the effect very striking, 
the ceiling being copied from Henry the Seventh’s Chapel, ornamented with 
fret work and gilt. In this is the famous eagle found near Caracalla’s bath 
at Rome, considered one of the finest pieces of animal sculpture in the 
world. There are many fine portraits by Zacchera, Jansen, and Sir Peter 
Lely. In other parts of the house are pictures by Holbein, Lucas de Heere, 
Sir Joshua Reynolds, Carter, Isaac Oliver, Cornelius Palenberg, Fuller, 
Mytens, Zincke, Petitot, and others. In a closet dedicated to her name are 
a beautiful set of drawings by Lady Diana Beauclerc, from the noble owner’s 
tragedy of the “ Mysterious Motherand in another, some beautiful land¬ 
scapes in pencil, by the present Countess of Harcourt when Miss Danby. 
Several of the best specimens of her powers in terra cotta, by the Honourable 
Mrs. Darner, are in various parts of the house, particularly two dogs; also 
two kittens in white marble. There are some fine water colour drawings 
by Miss Agnes Berry, to whom (with her sister) the Earl of Orford 
bequeathed his printed works and MSS. to be published after his death for 
their sole emolument. An excellent likeness of the Earl of Orford, from 
a picture painted by the late president* of the Royal Academy, is prefixed 
to his works, the principal of which is that, entitled Anecdotes of Painters 
from Vertue, which has lately been splendidly published by Major. 

One of Mr. Walpole’s amusements consisted of a private press, at which 
his own works and those of his particular friends were printed; editions 
of which are highly valued by the curious. The cottage in his flower 
garden was for some time the residence of Dr. Franklin, a circumstance 
not less singular than honourable to both parties, when we consider the 
difference of their political opinions, their birth, and habits. 

This celebrated villa was left by the late highly-gifted author, to the 
Honourable Mrs. Darner, with two thousand pounds per annum to keep 
it in repair, and after her death to the late Countess Dowager of Waldegrave 
for life, with remainder to the son, the earl who now enjoys it. The first 
mentioned lady soon resigned it in favour of the second, finding, it is said, 
the addition thereby made to her income inadequate to the expense. As 


* Sir Joshua Reynolds. 



TWICKENHAM. 


47 


in the time of the Earl of Orford visitors were admitted by tickets, which 
must be applied for at the house, the same custom is continued by the 
present possessor, one party only being admitted during one day. 

On the road to London is Fortescue House, which we believe to have 
been formerly inhabited by the father of Lady Lucy Fortescue, the lovely 
and lamented wife of the good Lord Lyttleton; who in his miscellaneous 
poems says, 

u On Thames’s banks a gentle youth 

For Lucy sigh’d with matchless truth, &c.” 

It is now the residence of the Rev. Dr. Lewis, who has a boarding school 
for young gentlemen. 

Every house in this interesting village of any size, commodious for a 
large family, or any site of peculiar beauty, has records which prove that 
they have been formerly inhabited by those who have delighted and improved 
us by their talents, excited our curiosity by their peculiarities, or been 
remarkable for rank, riches, or conduct. In one small house on the Common 
lived Paul Whitehead the poet, in another resided General Gunning, whose 
wife and daughter (now Mrs. Plunket) were successful novelists. Near the 
dwelling of the latter Richard Corbet, the poet and prelate, lived until he 
attained the see of Oxford. 

About a mile from this part of Twickenham stands a villa once inhabited 
by Sir Godfrey Kneller, who painted the staircase with the assistance of 
Laguerre in a splendid manner, which we understand is carefully preserved. 
Sir Godfrey was buried at Twickenham, but has a monument in Westminster 
Abbey. Wbitton Park in the same neighbourhood, now the residence of 
Sir Benjamin Hobhouse, Bart., was once inhabited by the celebrated archi¬ 
tect, Sir William Chambers; it was built by Archibald Duke of Argyle 
(brother of the duke already named), who planted near it many cedars, 
and other exotic trees which are at this time equal to any in the kingdom. 
His grace also erected a tower which commands a most extensive prospect, 
and the plans he laid out were improved upon by Sir William Chambers. 
Mr. Gostling, who afterwards purchased all the property of the Duke 
of Argyle in that part of the country, resided here some time; he was also 
a man of taste and improved it much, so that it has hitherto been singularly 
fortunate in its possessors. 


48 


TWICKENHAM. 



TWICKENHAM CHURCH. 


Returning to Twickenham we are called upon to visit the church, 
which lies near the Thames, but happily stands on rising ground, so that 
we have no records of its being annoyed by the floods which have at times 
risen to a great height very near the churchyard. The tower is of freestone 
and very ancient, forming a picturesque object from various points of the 
neighbourhood. The church to which it was attached fell down in the 

O 

night of the 19th of April, 1713, and was replaced by the present, which 
is of brick, and by no means accords with the appearance of its venerable 
tower. 

In this church lies the body of Pope and those of his parents, and in 
the churchyard that of his nurse, near to Mrs. Clive the actress. Suckling, 
the poet, is also buried here—Sir William Berkeley, and many persons of 
rank have also monuments in this church; and there is a remarkable number 
of aged persons buried both in the church and churchyard of Twickenham. 
We find here “ The Honourable Sir George Pococke, K. B. aged eighty-six,” 
and rejoice to learn that after suffering the hardships to which this brave 
veteran was inevitably subject, the mild air of his beautiful habitation could 
thus prolong existence. “ John Creakshanks, Esq. aged eighty-five.” 
“ John Nut, aged one hundred, and Charles Morton, M. D. aged eighty- 
three,” are amongst many other proofs of longevity. Within seven years 
we have frequently spoken with an old sailor, long resident at the poor- 
house, who having sailed with Admiral Pococke, often claimed the hospitality 





































TWICKENHAM. 


49 


of his successors kitchen and always “ had his claims allowed,” whom we 
understood to be nearly ninety. 

“In the parish chest of Twickenham, among other records, is a deed 
ot the abbess and convent of Sion, by which a tribute of twenty pounds 
per annum, formerly paid by the tenants of Isleworth manor (in the parishes 
of Isleworth, Heston, and Twickenham) is remitted. The initial letter of 
this deed which bears date, 22 Henry VI. is richly illuminated.” See 
Lysons. 

There was an ancient custom in Twickenham, of dividing two large 
cakes in the church upon Easter Day among the young people. This was 
considered by the parliament in 1645 “ a superstitious relic,” and they 
therefore commanded that the parishioners should forbear that custom, and 
instead thereof, give loaves of bread to the poor. It is thought that these 
cakes were bought by the vicar, as one pound per annum is still charged 
upon the vicarage to buy cakes for the children at Easter. Within the 
memory of man these cakes were thrown from the church steeple to be 
scrambled for, a custom that prevailed also at Paddington. 

Twickenham has a charity school and two sets of alms houses. There 
is likewise a charity which places a certain number of children in Christ’s 
Hospital and assists blind persons, given by John and Francis West. 

Leaving the churchyard by the road which leads to the waterside we 
are immediately struck by the beauty of the river, the admixture of village 
simplicity and rural elegance, which is conspicuous in all around us. 
Passing the grounds which enclose York House, the end of Sion Row (in 
which Miss Hawkins resides), the handsome villas of Miss Byng, and Sir 
George Pococke, we reach Ragman's Castle, a gloomy looking house 
almost enveloped in ivy, but with a garden that glides down to the water 
with the beauty of fabled fairy ground ; after which, a short turn through 
a little gate brings us to that beautiful terrace running by the river, opposite 
to the Countess of Dysart’s park already mentioned. 

To the left hand lie the house and grounds of Marble Hill, which open 
down to the water and are only divided from the walk in question by an 
haha. This villa was built for the Countess of Suffolk, mistress of the 
robes to Queen Caroline, by George II. Henry Earl of Pembroke was the 
architect, and the gardens were laid out by Pope. In the drawing room 


H 


50 


TWICKENHAM. 


there are several good paintings on pannel, particularly one of King 
Charles II. and his brother James, Duke of York, when very young men ; 
they are elegantly dressed, and display graceful figures, and pleasing if 
not handsome countenances. In a long room at the top of the house, called 
the ball-room, are three whole length portraits of George II. and his Queen, 
also the Countess of Suffolk, who is a lovely and interesting looking woman, 
of fair complexion, with long flaxen hair. The letters of this lady lately 
published by the Marchioness of Londonderry, together with the mention 
made of her in the Heart of Mid Lothian, give an uncommon interest to 
this portrait. 



A VIEW NEAR LAWN COTTAGE. 


Although it is said that the king built this house for his favourite, it 
seems probable that it was not finished, or the owners sufficiently endowed 
for supporting it properly, as several traditional anecdotes of the difficulties 
the countess laboured under to support her servants, and entertain her 
guests, have been handed down amongst the older inhabitants of her 
neighbourhood. Dean Swift, who is said to have stocked the cellar, 
and been appointed master of that and the ice-house, has written a 
humorous epistle from Marble Hill to the Lodge in Richmond (where 
the royal family had not long before resided) in which he speaks of it 
as being in an unfinished state; 








TWICKENHAM. 


51 


“ My house was built up for a show, 

My lady’s empty pockets know. 

And now she will not have a shilling, 

O 7 

To raise the stairs, or build the ceiling.” 

The prophecy which follows has not yet been fulfilled: 


“ Some South Sea broker from the city, 

\Y ill purchase me, the more’s the pity, 

Lay all my fine plantations waste, 

To fit them to his vulgar taste. 

“ Poor Patty Blount no more be seen, 

Bedaggled in my walks so green, 

Plump Johnny Gay will now elope, 

And here no more will dangle Pope.” 

From the last line we are induced to conclude that Gay had a home here 
as well as on the other side of the Thames with the Duke of Queensberry. 
It is certain that a stone bust of that poet was placed over a door which 
led to two rooms fitted up with coloured glass in the windows, which the 
man who showed us the house, about twelve years since, called “ Gay’s 
apartments,” and said they were contrived in that way that he might join 
the family or not, as he pleased. The door opened into a kind of wilderness, 
and was nearly hidden by trees, and there was certainly every appearance 
of the entrance and the apartment to which it led, having formed a retired 
but elegant abode for him, who was 

> 

“ A safe companion, and an easy friend. 

Beloved through life, lamented in his end.” 

Marble Hill, after the death of the first possessor, became the property 
of the late Earl of Buckinghamshire, it then descended to Miss Hotham, 
and was for many years uninhabited, but we are happy to find that is no 
longer the case, as it is now in possession of Colonel Peel and Lady Alicia, 
whose father, the Earl of Cassilis, has a beautiful seat in this neighbourhood. 
Under the united influence of youth, beauty, wealth, and taste, we may 
reasonably expect to see this long-deserted but finely-situated mansion, not 


52 


TWICKENHAM. 


only recover its honours but enjoy more than it possessed in earlier but not 
happier days. 

Below Marble Hill, the grounds of which are defined as to extent by 
two magnificent chestnut trees, which in spring are covered by ten thousand 
flowers, and rival even the luxuriance of America in their foliage, is Marble 
Hill Cottage, formerly called Spencer Grove, already mentioned as the abode 
of Lady Diana Beauclerc, and now in the possession of Timothy Brent, Esq. 
This cottage ornee is much nearer to the river than Marble Hill, and is at 
the extremity of the terrace walk from which it is only divided by a sunk 
fence, but it has the advantage of standing on high ground so as to gain a 
commanding view of the river, the green glades, and tall avenues of the Park 
opposite and of Richmond Hill and the houses that nestle in woody bowers 
beneath it. The house is low and screened by a rustic veranda which is 
completely covered by flowery creepers, with which the woodbine and rose 
intermingle so as to render the whole dwelling one bower of sweets, while 
over it immense trees spread their giant arms, as if to protect a cabinet of 
beauties destined to be the dwelling of Flora herself. 

In this abode Lady Diana Beauclerc indulged that fine taste she so 
eminently possessed, in adorning this beautiful dwelling; externally (as we 
have seen) by judicious horticulture, whilst the interior was decorated by 
her own hand with numerous drawings on the pannels, many of which have 
been copied under her eye and engraved. 

This elegant dwelling stands on the very verge of that park-like enclosure 
called Twickenham Meadows, which in its vicinity to the Thames, its rising 
and broken grounds, noble trees, and singularly fine verdure, constitutes the 
most varied and perfectly beautiful tract of ground to be found even in this 
favoured neighbourhood. The mansion attached to this park lies at the 
farthest point from that which we are now entering, and will not be visible 
to us for at least a quarter of a mile over the emerald turf of which we have 
spoken. We shall notwithstanding mention its history here so far as we 
have been able to trace it. “ The house was built in the early part of the 
seventeenth century by Sir Humphrey Lynd, celebrated for his writings 
against the papists; after his death it was in the occupation of Joyce Coun¬ 
tess of Totness, who died there in 1636. It was not long after the property 
of Joseph Ashe, Esq. who was created a baronet in 1660. The title became 


TWICKENHAM. 


53 


extinct on the death of his son. The house was enlarged, and the west 
front built by Windham Ashe, Esq. the representative of that family.” In 
1751 it was purchased by Richard Owen Cambridge, Esq. and became 
from that time the focus of attraction to all persons distinguished by virtue, 
learning, genius, and rank. 

Richard Owen Cambridge, Esq. author of the Scribleriad, Archimage 
(a most happy imitation of Spenser), and other poems, also of twenty-two 
admirable essays, first published in a periodical work called the World (and 
which might, without a pun, be called the best which the world could produce), 
appears to have verified in a striking manner the observation of our late 
venerable monarch, George III. when he asserted that “ an English country 
gentleman unencumbered by rank, and easy in fortune, was the happiest of 
men.” To these sources of satisfaction this gentleman added a richly stored 
mind, vivid imagination, an excellent constitution, and that extraordinary 
power of mental and bodily activity which enabled him at will either to 
engage in the plans of the engineer and agriculturist, or those of the profound 
student and elegant poet. Not less happy in his domestic treasures than 
his intellectual stores, Mr. Cambridge enjoyed the unexampled felicity of 
an union with the object of his first affections upwards of sixty years, sur¬ 
rounded by a family “ who never gave him pain until they died,” several 
branches of which survived to enliven his later days, and perform like 
duteous offices to their beloved mother. Unlike many men of decided 
genius and lengthened days, his mind and his heart lived with him to the 
last, and he died at eighty-five in full possession not only of his faculties 
but his affections, which in the frigid region of protracted age more frequently 
decline the first. Thus endowed, that religion which he adorned by a life 
of uniform piety, sustained him through the winter of existence as it had 
blessed him in its spring—he was sincerely, uniformly, and most happily a 
Christian. 

The divine, the statesman, and the wit, alike found in the society of 
Mr. Cambridge that which was congenial to their own pursuits, or studies. 
Many sought to draw him into public life, concluding (justly we doubt not) 
that his talents would have benefited his country in parliament; but this 
course of helping his fellow creatures he declined, being too wise for ambition 
and doubtless conscious that he did not less essentially contribute to their 



54 


TWICKENHAM. 


good in the situation he then filled. Earl Bathurst, Lord Hardwicke, 
Mr. Welbore Ellis (afterwards Lord Mendip), Sir Richard Lyttleton, 
Mr. Horace Walpole (Earl Orford), Lord North, Mr. Wray, Mr. Garrick, 
Sir Joshua Reynolds (for whose art he had a decided taste), Dr. Johnson, 
Bishop Porteus, Lord Hyde, and Admiral Boscawen, were among his dear 
friends and frequent companions. 

His works were collected and published in thick quarto, enriched with 
an excellent likeness of himself and those of several of his friends by his 
son the Venerable Archdeacon of Middlesex, with a memoir of his life. 
Of this part of the volume the only fault that will ever be found with it 
will be that it is too short, for in dwelling on the pages written by such 
a son on such a father, we would fain wish for more minute particulars of 
the daily life of this gifted and amiable man. 

In visiting these houses, we have approached them all as pedestrians, 
knowing that neither ride nor drive will introduce the tourist of “ Thames' 
banks” so effectually to his beauties. The road from the town of Twicken¬ 
ham does not become remarkably pleasant till it approaches the back of 
Marble Hill, though there are several good houses within sight, and it 
passes the end of Montpelier Row, a line of pleasant houses, though rather 
sombre in appearance from the high growth of the trees opposite, which are 
enclosed in the grounds of Marble Hill. This now contains a Chapel of 
Ease, the property of the Venerable Archdeacon Cambridge. In a place 
near, called the Back Lane, the celebrated Henry Fielding once resided with 
his family. 

In Montpelier Row, several persons of distinguished rank among the 
French emigrants of the former revolution, resided many years, the most 
remarkable of whom were the Duke of Orleans and the present Prince de 
Polignac, the former now on the throne of France, and the latter a prisoner 
to the state. So partial was the duke to the neighbourhood of Twickenham, 
that after the abdication of Buonaparte and the restoration of his property 
as a Bourbon, he returned with his duchess and family thither, and being 
accommodated with his house for a term of three years by Sir George 
Pococke, Bart., on the banks of the Thames, lived there nearly the whole 
of that time, removing only at the pressing instance of his uncle, late Kino; 
of France. The urbanity of his manners, the activity and benevolence of 


TWICKENHAM. 


his conduct, and the extent of his charities, rendered his departure a matter 
ot great regret to the inhabitants of Twickenham, for he was a proof that 

“ Sweet are the uses of adversity.” 

About six years since, the archdeacon having fulfilled his intention of 
building a house in Twickenham Meadows, in that part which was allowed 
to furnish the finest site for that purpose, has leased the large mansion 
inhabited by his father, to Lord Mount Edgecumbe, and now inhabits 
the beautiful Italian-like house we noticed from the Richmond side of the 
water. A view of the lodge built in the old English style leading to this 
house, has attracted considerable admiration as the subject of a picture 
exhibited in the British Gallery. 

Twickenham Meadows are justly celebrated. The extent and variety 
of view, the depth of ground, the noble bend of the river, which is here 
eminently picturesque, its green shelving banks, the fine trees which throw 
their shadows over it, and the rich herbage, all combine to distinguish these 
meadows as the most favoured spot on the Thames. 

The villa in question, embosomed amidst handsome trees which secure 
its privacy, yet interfere not with the fine expanse of prospect, is nearly 
opposite to the late Duchess of Buccleuchs residence, and may be said to 
be the best situated, and for its size the most convenient on the banks of 
the Thames. 

Richard Owen Cambridge, Esq. had made an extensive collection of 
pictures, which were partly sold by the Venerable Archdeacon Cambridge 
on his removal to his present abode, but he retained the most valuable and 
such as had been favourites in his family. Several fine and curious 
portraits, and sea-pieces, and the finest landscape by Both we have seen, 
beino- indeed considered the chef d’ceuvre of the artist, adorn the walls of 
his present residence. 

Leaving Twickenham Meadows and crossing the road just below, where 
it leads to the bridge, we enter Twickenham Park, in the year 1547 called 
“ Isleworth Park,” at which time Robert Bourchier was made keeper. In the 
year 1574 it was demised to Edward Bacon (third son of the lord keeper by 
his first wife). In 1581 a lease was granted for thirty years to Edward Fitz- 


56 


TWICKENHAM. 


garret, in 1595 a further lease to Francis Bacon, Esq. and John Hibbard. 
From this time therefore we may conclude that this truly great man inhabited 
the mansion belonging to the park at that time, and of which we regret to 
say there are now no remains, the last vestige being removed within five or 
six years, but the site is agreeably occupied by a pretty cottage ornee. The 
retirement of Twickenham Park was particularly desirable to him, whom 
Voltaire styles “ the father of experimental philosophy,” and we can scarcely 
doubt but the time passed here by Lord Bacon was the most happy, as well 
as most blameless, part of his life. Had he not mixed with the turmoil of 
courts he would not have earned the character given in the latter part of 
that line where Pope has stigmatized him as “ the greatest, wisest, meanest , 
of mankind,” whilst his claims to the former would have existed to the end 
of time. 

“ Sir Francis Bacon had the honour of entertaining Queen Elizabeth 
at Twickenham Park, when he presented her with a sonnet in praise of 
the Earl of Essex.” This nobleman well deserved such praise at his hands, 
since he had presented him with an estate, and his elder brother with an 
annuity, but it is recorded to his disgrace that he appeared against Lord 
Essex on his trial. It is however very possible that such appearance was 
much against his wishes, more especially when we remember that the queen 
whose favour he would doubtless seek to conciliate, was more likely to 
pardon his absence than his testimony. That his constant attachment to 
Essex had been the cause of his losing preferment, because it was offensive 
to Cecil (Lord Burleigh) is allowed by many writers, and it is therefore 
hard to render a circumstance forced upon him, and unquestionably grievous 
to him, one of the means for blackening a character which however vulnerable, 
has been hardly dealt with by posterity which owes him much. The con¬ 
centrated knowledge and wisdom of Bacon’s writings, should induce us to 
“ tread lightly on his ashes,” for his faults perished with him, his virtues 
remain and flourish in those works which can never cease to benefit his fellow 
creatures. 

Except the palace, from which he was divided by the river, it is probable 
that there was no dwelling within the view of Lord Bacon’s mansion during 
the time of his residence in it; and that the solitude, not less than the beauty 
of its situation, made it peculiarly delightful and useful to him, may be 


TWICKENHAM. 


5/ 


inferred from a manuscript in the British Museum, entitled “ Instructions 
irorn the Lord Chancellor Bacon to his servant Thomas Bushnell.” This 
paper relates to a plan he had in view for establishing- a corporation for 
exploring deserted mineral works. On the supposition that it might meet 
with due encouragement, he says, “ Let Twitnam Park, which I sold in my 
younger days, be purchased if possible for a residence for such deserving 
persons to study in, since I experimentally found the situation of that place 
much convenient for the trial of my philosophical conclusions, expressed in 
a paper sealed to the trust which I myself had put in practice, and settled 
the same by act of parliament, if the vicissitudes of fortune had not intervened 
and prevented me.” 

During his residence here, Sir Francis Bacon is said to have found 
great pleasure in cultivating his garden and in planting, and there is 
reason to believe that many of the alder trees which adorn this park have 
been planted by his hand. In 1606 this unfortunate statesman surrendered 
his interest in the lease to two gentlemen who held it but a short time, 
since we find it inhabited in 1608 by Lucy, wife to Edward Earl of Bedford, 
a lady celebrated by Donne and other poets of her day, to whom she was 
a liberal patroness, and to her relation, Sir William Harrington, she gave 
this beautiful place, who sold it to the Countess of Howe, mother of that 
Duchess of Lauderdale who lived at Ham House—after her death it was 
some time in the Berkeley family. In 1743 it was purchased by the Earl 
of Montrath, whose widow made singular provisions in her will, each of 
which proved to be efficient for her intentions. She bequeathed Twicken¬ 
ham Park to the Duchess of Montrose during the joint lives of the Duke 
and Duchess of Newcastle, but if the Duchess of Newcastle should survive 
the duke, the Duchess of Montrose was to quit possession to her; and if 
she should survive her, to enjoy it again during her life: after the death of 
the Duchess of Montrose to remain to Lord Frederick Cavendish and his 
issue; on failure of which, after his death to Lord John Cavendish and his 
issue, with remainder to Sir William Abdy, Bart, and his heirs in fee. It 
is remarkable, that except in the instance of Lord John not surviving Lord 
Frederick Cavendish, every thing happened which the countess provided 
for. The Duchess of Montrose took possession, quitted to the Duchess of 
Newcastle, took possession again on her death; in 1803 was succeeded by 



58 


TWICKENHAM. 


Lord Frederick Cavendish, from whom it came to Sir William Abdy. It 
was afterwards sold in lots, a grievous desecration of property so finely 
situated and so highly associated with the memories of its past honours. 
Happily the greater part was purchased by F. Gosling, Esq. whose villa 
and grounds, though in the parish of Isleworth, are on the boundaries of 
this park. The old mansion though containing some fine rooms (and said 
to be by no means in a dilapidated state) was taken down after this sale— 
no one was found who, like Stanhope and Ellis, being imbued with genius 
themselves, could honour the remains of a man of genius, by preserving his 
abode from destruction. 

On the death of Mr. Gosling, the place was purchased (together with 
the estate that gentleman possessed in Isleworth) by J. Todd, Esq. who, 
after greatly enlarging the house and improving the grounds of the last 
named property, sold it, together with a portion of the park in question, to 
the Earl of Cassilis, who resides principally there, and can boast a site of 
uncommon beauty, and a mansion which is an ornament to the neighbour¬ 
hood, and distinguished by standing on a rising ground which is here 
difficult to be obtained. The upper and larger part of the park Mr. Todd 
retained in his own hands, and on the site of Lord Bacon’s house he first 
built a small but very pretty villa. In laying the foundations for this, many 
relics of a former building were discovered, some of which gave the idea 
of its having at a very early period been the site of a nunnery. Lower down 
in the park a second house has been built on a more extended scale, calculated 
for the reception of a large establishment, and at the uppermost part three 
or four small gay looking buildings arise apparently calculated for summer 
dwellings where health or pleasure is temporarily sought. The character of 
the Park is therefore no longer that of solitude, which since the extension 
of Richmond and the building of the bridge could not indeed belong to it. 
nor can the character of the ground be said to be injured by dwellings 
which seen amongst the trees mingle agreeably with the colouring, and 
increase the cheerfulness of the scene. We trust however that there will be 
no further peopling of these sacred shades, and rejoice that a considerable 
portion remains attached to the mansion of Lord Cassilis. Through Twick¬ 
enham Park there is a public foot path from the bridge at Richmond to the 
Isleworth ferry, and the greensward here, as in Twickenham Meadows, is 


TWICKENHAM. 


59 


beautiful to the very verge of the river, being still unpolluted by the towing 
path, which is on the other side under the raised terrace walk, which we 
have already noticed when describing Richmond. 

The house now inhabited by the Earl of Cassilis before it was purchased 
by the late Mr. Gosling, was successively in possession of Lady Charleville, 
Lord Muncaster, and the Duchess of Manchester. Very near it was a 
house (taken down by Lord Cassilis in order to render the principal mansion 
more completely insulated) which was formerly inhabited by the celebrated 
Sheridan and his first lovely wife, and is frequently referred to by the 
author of his memoirs. This house was built by James Lacey, Esq. 
patentee of Drury Lane Theatre, and was some time in the occupation of 
the Earl of Warwick. 

Below this site is a third house, looking (like the last named) immediately 
on the river and the opposite grounds of Kew Gardens and Richmond 
Gardens, but these have not by any means the fine prospect afforded to the 
mansion of Lord Cassilis, which looks through Twickenham Park towards 
Richmond Hill, an addition to the view not enjoyed by the others. The 
last was many years inhabited by Mr. Bland, and is now the property of 
the widow of — Birket, Esq. 

The Thames flows from Richmond Bridge to Isleworth ferry, in nearly 
a straight line of calm unruffled beauty. Near Richmond are two small 
islands planted with trees, but from thence to the point of which we speak, 
the broad unbroken surface spreads like a mirror of crystal, save where it 
is varied by the light pleasure boat, the long dark barge, or the gay 
pageantry sent from time to time by the city of London, and which 
unquestionably offers a most brilliant and spirit-stirring spectacle. The 
Lord Mayor’s barge with its pennons flying, its deck crowded with gay 
company, followed by the vessels of different companies, all richly adorned 
and provided with bands of music, slowly floating on this noble stream 
between banks like these shaded by lofty trees, studded by princely villas, 
and gilded by the evening rays of a summer’s sun, is a sight to awaken 
the best feelings of the patriot and the philanthropist, not less than the 
admirers of nature and the lovers of innocent recreation. 

Below the ferry the Thames widens considerably, being indeed divided 
by a long island planted with osiers, which grow speedily in so moist a 



GO 


TWICKENHAM. 


soil, as it is frequently flooded, to which Twickenham Park is also subject 
in rainy seasons. Isleworth Church stands on elevated ground a little below 
the island, and its ancient tower covered with ivy is a venerable and pic¬ 
turesque object as seen from the river, forming indeed one of the most 
interesting features in this attractive scenery. 



ISLEWORTH CHURCH. 


The village of Isleworth, formerly recorded as Gistelworde, and subse¬ 
quently Istelworth or Thistelworth, is an ancient and extensive village, 
containing many remarkable dwellings and much that is worthy of note 
even to the hasty tourist, but beyond that portion which lies on the banks 
of the Thames, and may be noticed by such as visit Richmond by water; 
we do not consider it within the province of this brief survey to mention. 

The most remarkable circumstance in the former history of Isleworth 
was the grand monastic foundation of Sion by Henry V. This was originally 
a convent of Bridgettines, founded at Twickenham, but removed eighteen 
years after to a more spacious edifice built upon their demesnes within 
the parish of Isleworth.” The Convent of Sion was dedicated to “ our 
Saviour, the Virgin Mary, and St. Bridget,” and consisted according to the 
rules of that saint, of sixty nuns, including the abbess, thirteen priests, four 













TWICKENHAM. 


61 


deacons, and eight lay brethren, making in the whole the number of the 
apostles, and seventy-two disciples of Christ. It is to be observed that it 
was only in convents of Bridgettines and Gilbertines, that monks and nuns 
were permitted to reside under the same roof.” 

King Henry granted this convent an annuity of a thousand marks out 
of the Exchequer, until such time as they should be provided; and so 
rapidly did their endowments increase, that at the time of the dissolution 
the revenue w T as one thousand seven hundred and thirty-one pounds, eight 
shillings, and four-pence half-penny, a large income in those days. At the 
time of the suppression, reports particularly unfavourable of the morals of 
this convent were given, but probably the accusations were made to suit 
the king's purposes. 

In this place, after the dissolution, Queen Katharine Howard was a 
prisoner nearly three months previous to her execution, and here the body 
of the tyrant her husband (whose funeral procession was very magnificent) 
rested on its way to Windsor. On the accession of his son, Edward VI. 
this young monarch gave the monastery of Sion and all its appurtenances 
to the Lord Protector, Edward, Duke of Somerset, who had previously 
rented some premises under the convent. This unfortunate nobleman built 
on or near the site of the monastery a noble edifice, the shell of which may 
be said still to exist, though long since covered by the stately walls of the 
mansion called Sion House, on which the Duke of Northumberland is now 
bestowing that renovation its fine site and ancient celebrity so richly merit. 
He also laid the foundation of that botanic garden which at the present 
period rivals the royal one of Kew, and is about to be enriched by a con¬ 
servatory unparallelled in expense and extent. The Duke of Somerset's 
improvements at this place were amongst the causes of his downfall, and 
as upon his attainder this property reverted to the crown, Queen Mary (of 
bloody memory) restored the convent of Sion, and endowed it with the manor 
of Isleworth. It was again dissolved by Elizabeth, and the nuns after many 

changes settled at Mocambo in Spain. 

In 1563, the plague being in London, the court was held in Sion House; 
in 1604 it was granted to Henry, Earl of Northumberland, who afterwards 
endured great persecution in the star chamber, from an unfounded suspicion 
that he had been concerned in the gunpowder plot — he was confined 


62 


TWICKENHAM. 


fifteen years in the Tower, and obliged to pay a fine of thirty thousand 
pounds. During his imprisonment he wrote to the king (James I.), offering 
this house in part of payment of his fine, saying, “ that he had himself laid 
out nine thousand pounds upon the house and gardens, and that if the former 
were pulled down the materials would sell for eight thousand pounds.’’ His 
offer was not accepted, and his successor gave the house a thorough repair 
under the direction of Inigo Jones. 

This earl, during the troubles of Charles I., rendered his splendid abode 
frequently that of the royal children, whose father visited them here in 
consequence of the noble owner’s intercession for that purpose, conduct 
which does honour to his memory, especially when we recollect the perse¬ 
cution his father suffered. 

Elizabeth, sole' heir of this earl, having married the Duke of Somerset, 
this mansion became his property, and was lent by him for some time to 
Queen Anne when Princess of Denmark. By a deficiency of male issue 
this beautiful and princely property became the right of Sir Hugh Smythson 
the grandfather of the present possessor, who has expended and is expending 
immense sums to render both this and his town residence (Northumberland 
House) as magnificent and convenient as any palaces in Europe. The 
gardens which were much improved by the celebrated Brown, are richly 
stored with curious exotics, and contain some of the largest cedar trees in 
the kingdom. 

The plate given here, is a boat house situate at the Isleworth side of 
Sion Park, and so near the lower ferry as to be a well known object to 
all persons who use the river. Some houses a little above it, are said to 
stand on the site of offices belonging to the convent, and it is probable that 
the present boat house covers the remains of a much older. It is a light 
and pleasing building, in perfect accordance with the surrounding objects, 
and serves well to define the extent of those magnificent gardens which 
appertain to the splendid house below them, and which is so placed, from 
a bend in the river, as to show two sides of its noble quadrangle with the 
happiest effect. The great hall of Sion House is sixty-six feet by thirty-one, 
enriched with antique statues, and paved with black and white marble, and 
adjoining to it is a magnificent vestibule adorned with twelve columns of 
the Ionic order, and sixteen pilasters of verd antique , purchased at an 


TWICKENHAM. 


63 


immense expense, and probably exhibiting a greater quantity of that valuable 
marble than can be found in any other building in Europe. The drawing¬ 
room tables are formed of the Mosaic work found in Titus’s baths: the 
library extends through the whole east side of the quadrangle, and is 
furnished in the general style of magnificence which pervades every depart¬ 
ment of this splendid mansion. 

The church, which is dedicated to All Saints, resembles that of Twick¬ 
enham, in being built of brick and joined incongruously to an ancient stone, 
“ ivy mantled tower.” It stands at the end of the village, and near the 
entrance to Sion Park, and is a spacious convenient edifice in which are 
numerous monuments, one of which records the history of Mrs. Anne Talson 
in her epitaph, and is so remarkable as to demand attention. 

This lady it appears was daughter of George Newton, Esq. and twice 
married, “ first to Henry Lisson, afterwards to John Talson, Esquires, and 
in her second widowhood reduced to narrow circumstances and obliged to 
set up a boarding school as a means of procuring a livelihood, but blindness 
having rendered her unfit for that employment, she became an object of 
charity. In the mean time Dr. Caleb Catesworth, a physician, who had 
married a relation of Mrs. Talson, died, having amassed in the course of his 
practice a hundred and fifty thousand pounds, the greater part of which 
(being upwards of a hundred and twenty thousand pounds) he left to his 
wife, who surviving him only a few hours died intestate, and her large 
fortune was divided between Mrs. Talson and two others as her nearest of 
kin. With a due sense of this signal deliverance and unexpected change 
from a state of want to riches and affluence, she appropriated, by a deed 
of gift, the sum of five thousand pounds to be expended in building and 
endowing an alms house at Isleworth, for six poor men and six poor women." 

In the plan of the south aisle is the gravestone of “ Margaret Dely, a 
syster professed in Syon, who deceased the 7 October, anno 1561." 

“ Among the records in the augmentation office there is an agreement 
between the abbess and convent of Sion, the college at Winchester, and 
the vicar of Isleworth, relating to the tithes of the conventual demesnes. 
The warden and scholars of Winchester were to receive in lieu of their 
right a pension of twenty shillings per annum. The vicar and his servant 
were to have free ingress into the hall or refectory of the convent, where 


64 


TWICKENHAM. 


the vicar was to sit down with the upper servants, and without let, or moles¬ 
tation, to partake of their usual fare, his servant to have the same privilege 
with the inferior servants or grooms. The vicar was also to have a piece 
of cloth for a gown, and an annual stipend of thirty-three shillings and 
four-pence, so long as he should continue to pray for the good estate of 
the convent in his masses; which, if at any time he omitted, the stipend 
for that year w T as to be forfeited. By some subsequent agreement the diet 
was commuted for money, and the sum of ten pounds, including the thirty- 
three shillings and four-pence, was allotted to the vicar out of the demesne 
lands, which is still received.” 

Among the minutes of the vestry is a license dated in 1661, given by 
the vicar of Isleworth to Richard Downton, Esq. and Thomasin his wife, 
to eat flesh in Lent “for the recovery of health, they being enforced by age, 
notorious sickness, and weakness, to abstain from fish.” 

4 

There was anciently a chapel dedicated to All Angels, but no vestiges 
of it now remain. It is somewhat remarkable that a place where the 
Roman Catholic religion had been established in all the pomp and attraction 
attendant on a monastic establishment regally endowed and protected, should 
afterwards have become the head quarters of Puritanism, which appears to 
have been the case at Isleworth, from General Fairfax residing here, from 
the sequestration of the vicar, and other corroborating circumstances. 

Besides Mrs. Talsoffis alms houses is a place built for six poor women 
by Mrs. Mary Bell; some cottages given by Mrs. Margaret Kemp; and from 
various benefactors, a charity school for forty boys and thirty girls is well 
supported. Among others, the widow of Oliver, the celebrated miniature 
painter who lived here in the reign of Charles II. contributed handsomely. 

The Duke of Shrewsbury, a nobleman of great importance in the reign 
of William and Mary, being at the same time Lord Chamberlain of the 
Household, Lord High Treasurer of England, and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 
purchased a house in Isleworth in which he ended his days. The duke 
was a protestant, but the earl, his successor, a catholic, and by him this 
house was converted into a charity school for poor boys, whose parents were 
of that persuasion; but it is now nearly all taken down except a part which 
is used as a chapel, the officiating priest being chaplain to the Earl of Shrews¬ 
bury. Kendall House, formerly a very attractive place of public rendezvous, 


TWICKENHAM. 


65 


is also removed, and several others once inhabited by persons of rank and 
fortune have shared the same fate, so that Isleworth may be considered as 
much on the decline, and “ shorn of the beams, v which in the beginning 
of the eighteenth century rendered it very brilliant and agreeable as a place 
of residence. 

Exactly opposite to Sion Gardens, and extending till they also face the 
town of Brentford, lie the royal gardens of Kew, and although the present 
work does not offer any particular view connected with them, the writer of 
these pages considering them as closely connected with Richmond, deems it 
her duty not to close the present work without offering a brief account of 
a place interesting to every Briton, as being the frequent residence of George 
the Third, and in early life of his present Majesty also. 


K 


K E W. 


The cloistered court, the green retreat. 

Have still a wondrous charm for me; 

I love the venerable seat 
Of ancient lore and loyalty. 

Terbot. 


The most ancient mention of Kew is in the reign of Henry VII. in a 
court roll of Richmond. Its situation by the waterside induces the supposition, 
that it was originally Key or Quay. It lies in the hundred of Kingston, and 
is united to Petersham. 

The first persons of note who lived here appear to have been Charles 
Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who married Mary, sister to Henry VIII. after 
she was the widow of the King of France, to whom she was given for 
political reasons, notwithstanding her known and permitted attachment to 
the young Duke. The king lived only six weeks after his nuptials, his 
death being hastened by a tournament given in their honour. We recollect 
a poetical epistle, written in the name of this princess, by the once admired 
Mrs. Rowe, author of u Letters from the Dead to the Living,*’ in which 
this circumstance is alluded to— 

“ Invited by an eager thirst for fame, 

Without regard for my repose you came. 

The lists I saw thee enter with surprise. 

And felt the dazzling glances of thine eyes.” 

In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sir John Puckering, Keeper of the Great 
Seal, entertained her Majesty at his house in Kew, presented her with 
diamonds, “ valued at four hundred pounds at least, a faire pair of virginals, 




KEW. 


67 


a fine gown and jappir, which things were pleasing to her Highness, and 
to grace his lordship the more, she of herself took from him a salt, a spoone, 
and a forke of faire agate/’ 

Kew House, the occasional residence of George III. and his royal consort, 
was about the middle of the seventeenth century the property of Lord Capel, 
from him it descended to Mr. Molineux, secretary to King George II. This 
gentleman was a man of literature, and a clever astronomer. Frederick, 
Prince of Wales, took a lease of Kew House about the year 1730—his son 
purchased the fee of the Countess of Essex. The pleasure grounds, which 
contain about one hundred and twenty acres, were laid out by Prince Frederick 
in the taste of that day; and, notwithstanding the flatness of the ground, by 
the introduction of the Pagoda, an unique specimen of Chinese taste, which is 



one hundred and sixty-three feet in height, a prospect is obtained of almost 
unequalled richness, over a country so cultivated and populous as it embraces. 
This house, being small and inconvenient, was taken down about 1800, and 
the pictures and furniture removed to a house on the opposite side of the 
Green, formerly the property of Sir Hugh Portman, built about the reign of 
James I. 

This Mansion has ever since been occupied by the royal family in their 























68 


KEW. 


occasional visits to Kew. It was the scene of the last illness and death of her 
Majesty, Queen Charlotte. Soon after Kew House was taken down, a building 
was erected of a castellated form, under the direction of James Wyat, R. A., 
but was not considered a happy specimen of his architectural skill; and, after 
remaining unfinished several years, was razed by command of his late Majesty, 

George IV., who purchased from the late - Hunter, Esq. a house and 

grounds, commanding an agreeable view of the river, and contiguous to his 
own property. These premises have been lately appropriated to the residence 
of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Cumberland. It is 
remarkable that during three generations Kew has been selected for the 
education of branches of the royal family. Here were educated George III. 

_ 4 

and, in the next generation, his children; and here Prince George of Cum¬ 
berland is at present pursuing, under proper guidance, such studies as are 
calculated to render him a wise, virtuous and accomplished Prince. 

It is in the Botanic Garden that the pride of Kew consists, and under the 
care of the Messrs. Aiton (father and son) it has arrived at a state of the 
greatest perfection*. Several editions of the “ Hortus Kewensis,” each richer 
than its predecessor, have been published, and verify the truth of this assertion. 
About sixty years since, a work on the subject, with forty plates, was published 
by Sir William Chambers, and it has also been the subject of two poems. 
The Gardens of Richmond and Kew were laid together about the year 1802, 
they alike boast trees of the most lofty growth and luxuriant foliage, and are 
alike protected by the beautiful river which bounds them by a gentle yet 
powerful barrier; and from the banks of which, objects of beauty and grandeur 
are alone visible, those of less agreeable aspect being judiciously, but not 
apparently, excluded. 

Kew may be said to consist of a pretty Green irregularly surrounded 
by houses, in no instance unsightly, and in many of great respectability, 

* The superb Botanical establishment at Hackney, by Messrs. Wm. and G. Locldiges, 
is generally considered to be unrivalled. It was begun upwards of fifty years since by 
the late Mr. Conrad Locldiges, and has since been greatly improved by his sons, who have 
added to the collection an immense variety of Exotics from all parts of the world. A lofty 
building is appropriated to the larger plants, and many thousands are ranged in scientific 
order in extensive and elegant conservatories. The spirit of enterprise, and perseverance 
displayed in this establishment, reflect the highest credit on the exertions which have raised 
it.—The Botanical Cabinet, now in the course of publication, by Messrs. Locldiges, has 
reached 187 monthly Numbers, and contains to the present time 1870 plates of their finest 
specimens of choice Plants beautifully coloured from Nature, with descriptive letter-press. 
Published by J. and A. Arch, Cornhill .—Note by the Publisher, 1832. 



KEW. 


69 


combining in an uncommon degree the character of rural simplicity and 
ancient importance. There is an excellent bridge over the Thames, and 
at the upper part of the Green a neat church, the surrounding burial-ground 
ot which has many monuments. One erected to the memory of Zoffany, 
the painter, catches the eye immediately; and near it may be found the 
gravestone of Gainsborough, an artist still more celebrated. Meyer, the 
miniature painter, is also buried here; they were all members of the Royal 
Academy, and all highly admired and patronized by the late king. Here 
also was interred Mr. Joshua Kirby, author of an excellent work on Per¬ 
spective, and president of that society of artists from which the Royal 
Academy emanated. He was a clever artist and excellent man, and had 
the happiness of being the father of the wise, pious, and every way admirable, 
Mrs. Trimmer; whose efforts for the benefit of her fellow creatures are 
known to all. She resided at the neighbouring town of Brentford, and 
was justly appreciated by the royal family, who repaid her exertions, by 
assisting her numerous and deserving children. 

“ Lady Capel gave an estate, the profits of which are to be divided 
annually on the 12th of May in Kew Chapel, for the purpose of supporting 
charity schools in Kew, and eleven other parishes; the share lately appro¬ 
priated to each parish, was thirty-seven pounds, ten shillings, per annum. 
If the person or persons, whose office it is to receive the share appointed 
for any one of these parishes, should neglect to attend on the day above- 
mentioned to receive it, such share becomes forfeited, and is divided amongst 
the other parishes.” 

Elizabeth, Countess of Derby, also left one thousand pounds to Old 
Brentford and Kew, for their poor. 

With these testimonials, to the kind consideration and benevolent dispo¬ 
sition of her own sex, the writer concludes her brief, but she trusts not 
useless, sketch of Kew, since it may revive in the memories of many in that 
village, the time when they were honoured and blessed by the residence 
of a sovereign amongst them, whose person they loved, whose virtues they 
venerated, and to whose example they owe, probably at this moment, respec¬ 
tability and happiness. A sovereign in whom the extension of empire 
awoke neither pride nor tyranny; nor its diminution, despondency or mean¬ 
ness ; thereby offering an example alike useful to the son of prosperity and 
the child of misfortune. Who, as husband, father, master, and neighbour, 


70 


KEW. 


conducted himself before all men with the deep humility of a Christian 
conscious of the fallibility of his nature, and the warm affections of a man 
awake to all the endearing tendernesses which belonged to his domestic 
situation, and the more extended ties which united him as a king to his 
fellow creatures, howsoever and wheresoever they were situated. In Kew 
has the tear sprung to his eye whilst his hand signed the death warrant to 
the malefactor—in Kew, has that eye glistened with delight and gratitude 
to heaven, when the partner of his cares and joys presented a new pledge 
of their affection,—and in Kew, he has assembled around him a band of 
ardent spirits, who would have defended him, his altar, and his crown, 
from insult, even “ by the ruddy drops that fed their hearts/’ Here , has 
he contemplated the horrors of anarchy, tasted the anguish of disappointment, 
and those sorrows of life which “flesh is heir to ” under its most exalted 
state;—and here , he has enjoyed the consolations of love, the support of 
friendship, the confidence of kingly reliance on a devoted people, and that 
far better trust, which is the result of faith in Him who never faileth. 


In pursuing the objects of interest most conspicuous in the charming 
country, offered to the reader’s attention, we have taken him, for the most 
part, through paths only open to the pedestrian; but he will not therefore 
conclude that the drives about Richmond are not also beautiful. In the 
Park at Richmond, and the lanes of Petersham and Ham they are eminently 
so; but Twickenham Meadows and Park must be walked over to be seen 
fairly. In fact, every person gifted with a painter’s eye and a poet’s 
conception, will be well aware that the slow lingering rambler, perfectly 
independent as to time and motion, is the one person to whom the storehouse 
either of nature or art is perfectly open. To him the flickering shadow, the 
golden sunbeam, the alternate light or gloom of the deep shadow of a 
cathedral grove, the dazzling brilliance of a parterre, the silver rolling of a 
noiseless stream, or the successive motions of its green willows, partial 
glances of distant buildings, bold architectural designs disclosed in palladian 
grandeur, or simple cottages sought by the eye from the light blue smoke 
that tells of their existence, form in their change and their succession, the 
charm that leads him and enchants him. He alone lias time and opportunity 






KEW. 


71 


to descry tlieir several beauties; to distinguish, arrange, and admire that 
which is excellent, and by the force of imagination expunge the incongruous, 
or add the possible. The light boat laden with the young, the lovely, and 
the gay—the heavy barge bearing the necessaries of life to the ever craving 
millions of our mighty metropolis—the various dwellings which recall names 
and actions of the honoured dead to mind, and repeople this smiling land 
with the wits, poets, orators, and beauties, now gone down to the silent 
grave, yet living in the unfading records of genius—awaken in him ideas 
and associations which enhance a thousand fold the pleasure surrounding 
objects is calculated to excite. Every step he takes—every gleam of light 
sparkling in the glade—every deep shadow resting on the distant vista, 
offers to his eye and his imagination, somewhat on which to “ chew the 
cud of sweet and bitter fancyand singularly must that mind be constructed 
which, in traversing such scenes is not alternately led from “ nature up to 
nature’s God,” in the exquisite views before him; and in his recollections 
of the great and good, the enlightened and the talented, now “ gone down 
to the dust,” is not taught to rejoice in that glorious revelation which assures 
us that 

“ The storms of wintry time will soon be past. 

And one unbounded spring encircle all.” 


FINIS. 


CHISWICK : 

PRINTED BY C. WHITTINGHAM. 





































































































INDEX. 


Page 

Almshouses, pages 17, 18, and end of Index. 


Amy Robsart.13 

Anglers.37 

Bacon, Lord.2, 56 


Buccleuch, late Duchess of (grandmother 
of the present Duke), her amiable cha¬ 
racter for condescension and liberality 23 
Byng, the Honourable the Misses, villa 
of, at Twickenham .49 

Cambridge, the Venerable the Archdea¬ 
con, new villa of.55 

-Lodge-entrance to the grounds 

of. 55 

Cambridge, the late Richard Owen, Esq. 53 
Cardinal Wolsey.8 

Dairy at Ham House, built for the late 
Countess of Dysart, curious account of 34 
Darner, the Honourable Mrs. . . . 41, 46 

Ellerker, Mrs. Gothic House on Rich¬ 
mond Hill belonging to.25 

Elm planted by Queen Elizabeth . 11, 19 

Fitzwilliam, Viscount, house of, on Rich¬ 


mond Green.15 

Gainsborough resided at Richmond . . 26 

Grey, Lady Jane.13 

Ham House .31 

- Common.33 

Jeanny Dean's interview with Queen 

Caroline.30 

Isleworth Church.60 

Kew.66 

-House.67 


Page 

Lord Mayor’s Barge.59 

-Vignette of the . 1 

Marble Hill, now occupied by the Most 
Honourable the Marquess Wellesley . 49 

Marble Hill Cottage, the property of Ti¬ 
mothy Brent, Esq.52 

Monument of Mrs. Barbara Lovvther, by 
Flaxman, in Richmond church . . 17 

Observatory in Richmond Lower Park, 
built by George III.18 

Pagoda in Kew Gardens.67 

-Vignette of the 67 

Pavilion at Syon (called the Boat House) 
in the Grounds of His Grace the Duke 

of Northumberland.62 

Pococke, Sir George, Bart, mansion of, - 
at Twickenham .40 


Pope’s House.35, 41 

-Grotto.41 


-Willow .43 

Queen Catherine Howard.61 

Ragman’s Castle (now called Lawn Cot¬ 
tage) .49 

Reynolds, Sir Joshua, house of, at Rich¬ 
mond .26 

Richmond, ancient history of ... . 4 

-tournament held at . . . 7 

-Park, history of ... 9, 27 

-Church.16 

-New Church, and Vignette of 

the.preceding 1 

Syon House, seat of His Grace the Duke 
of Northumberland, originally a con¬ 
vent, history of.60 


L 






































74 


INDEX. 


Page 

St. Margaret’s in Twickenham Park, Seat 
of the Marquess of Ailsa, formerly Earl 


of Cassilis.. . 24—58 

Star and Garter Tavern ...... 26 

Stella.14 

Strawberry Hill.44 

Suffolk, Countess of.50 

Swans .36 

Talson, Mrs. Anne, remarkable circum¬ 
stance in her life.63 


Theatre, now under the management of 
the celebrated tragedian Kean ... 18 

Thomson the Poet, residence of, in Kew- 


Page 

foot Lane now called Rosedale House, 
the property of the Earl of Shaftes¬ 


bury .15 

Twickenham.38 

■-Meadows.24, 55 

-beautiful terrace walk in 

Meadows.49 

-Church .48 

-Park . .55 

Vineyard, the, Richmond.25 

Windsor seen from Richmond.Hill . . 25 


ERRATA. 

Page 

5 The distance from East Sheen to the foot of the Hill is about two miles. 

10 The house of Sir William Dundas was unquestionably a part of the Palace—if those of 
Mr. Julius and Lady Sullivan were so, they have been new fronted it is evident. 

16 in the note, for “ Spring Grove,” read “ Rosedale House, formerly belonging to Thomson 
the Poet.” 

16 for “ buried at the abbey,” read “ Westminster Abbey.” 

19 for “ Morris,” read “ Norris.” 

21 for “ residence of Mr. Painter,” read “ Samuel Paynter, Esq.” 

25 for “ Mrs. Ellermer,” read “ Mrs. Ellerker.” 

30 for “ Ladbroke,” read “ Sudbrook.” 

34 for “ Ragland Castle,” read “ Ragman’s Castle.” 

35 for “ Mr. Hunter,” read “ Mr. Hunt.” 

60 for “ Sion,” read “ Syon.” 


The writer of this work is obligingly furnished with the following note on the almshouses 
of Richmond by Robert Thorley, Esq. of Petersham. 

“ The almshouses under the hill were erected in 1805, to replace others of an inferior 
description, standing on the upper part of the common, and at the end of the house built by 
the late Sir Joshua Reynolds : for this accommodation, and a few yards taken off the common, 
the late Honourable Mrs. Lyle, with the consent of the Lord of the Manor and copyholders, 
gave two hundred and fifty pounds, by which, and with further aid of the parish, the present 
buildings were finished, and are occupied by decayed aged persons belonging to the parish 
of Petersham.” 

N. B. The ancient yew, mentioned (page 10) as being in the survey 1649, is in the garden 
of G. C. Julius, Esq.—the cypress given in the vignette is in the garden of Lady Sullivan. 


Chiswick Press :—C. Whittinghara, College House. 






























































































